Hi Jack,
I had a similar problem with my TR3. All new brake parts except
for the caliper bodies and the restrictor valve.
The best of several correct responses from the list was from
Shayne Peterson which I have copied here with my original post.
The problem was that the master cylinder push rod was adjusted
with negative play. This would keep the pressure in the brake line
and lock up the brakes.
My recommendation would be to check the pushrod.
By the way the most important part of the car is correctly operating
brakes.
Date sent: Sun, 11 Jun 2000 22:02:18 -0700
From: PETERSON SHAYNE <triumph-
tr4@home.com>
Organization: @Home Network Member
To: Roger Colson <sassamon@mediaone.net>
Copies to: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Brake binding problem
I have never had this problem, nor have I ever even diagnosed it,
therefore, I may be way off base.
I believe this problem crossed the list a little while ago and it was
caused by the master cylinder not returning to the 'home' position
fully.
This would make sense, as the reservoir would not be open to the
loop and
the pressure would not bleed out of the system properly. The
pressure
would also increase as friction induced heat increased from the
pads
rubbing on the rotors.
If others on the list could throw in their $.02, to verify my diagnosis,
it would be a much appreciated sign that I am beginning to get the
hang of
this stuff (all things lbc).
Shayne Peterson
63 TR4
Roger Colson wrote:
>
> Hello fellow listers,
>
> I am now able to drive my TR3 under it's own power. Spent most
of the
> morning adjusting the mixture. Some first timer mistakes slowed
me
> down.
>
> A major problem is that I believe the brakes appear to be locking
up
> after a short trip. After about 200 feet they start to bind and then
> shortly there after the engine bogs down trying to move the car.
After
> waiting the car will roll again but then go through the same
routine.
> Last time I noticed that the brake pedal was hard, so I looked
and the
> brake lights were on. So I opened one of the caliper bleeders
and a
> small amount of brake fluif spouted out. I was then able to get
the car
> back in the garage.
>
> The brakes have been done over this winter. New master
cylinder.
> rebuilt calipers. SS pistons. New pads. SS hardlines. SS
braided
> hoses. New rear cylinders. New rear shoes. The rotors were
fine, with
> lots of metal left, and the drums were like new.
>
> What I would like help with is in trying to diagnose and repair this
> problem.
>
> What would cause the brake pressure to build up? Several times
I did
> not even touch the brake pedal.
>
> What I plan on checking is:
>
> What appears to be rubbing.
> Could the pads be too thick? The rotors were hardly worn. The
pads
> were a little snug when installing.
>
> Could the caliper be off center? Forcing one pad to always be in
> contact.
>
> I will re-check the rear brake adjustment.
>
> As I write this message I am thinking of more things to check.
>
> Is there freedom of movement in the hand brake pawls with the
hand
> brake off?
>
> If I need to, I will pull the rotor and have it checked for truth.
>
> I won't be able to get to the car until Tuesday evening. So I can
read
> responses sent directly to the list in the list digest.
>
> Thank you,
> Roger
> Hoping to make it to the show Fathers Day.
>
> Roger Colson
> 57 TR3 TS21383L
> sassamon@mediaone.net
> http://people.ne.mediaone.net/sassamon/TS21383L
Roger Colson
57 TR3 TS21383L "Bettie"
sassamon@mediaone.net
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/sassamon/TS21383L
Natick, Massachusetts USA
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