> I have a M/F TEA20 circa 1952. Last week I had the head refurbished and
> installed it this weekend. Now the little beast doesn't want to go. I
> can't see any spark coming from the HT wire out of the coil yet there is
> voltage to the coil when the ignition is switched on (multimeter
> reading to
> the +ve side of the coil and the block). The points are at the right gap
> and merrily open and close. I didn't alter the timing and all plug leads
> are on the right one plugs. I'm stumped. Plenty of petrol and all that.
John, I would start by checking the voltage on the points side of the coil
with the ignition switched on, which should be 12v with the points open, and
0v with the points closed. Double check that the voltage on the switch side
is still 12v with the points closed. If that's all OK, try replacing first
the condensor and then the coil.
> Also, there is one other question. The workshop manual is light on detail
> about how to set the valve clearances other than specifying the
> actual gap.
> Do you set, say, No. 8 with No. 1 valve depressed and No. 7 with No. 2
> depressed, etc?
There are different ways to go about this, the TR2/3 owner's manual says
simply to turn the crank/shaft 1/2 turn beyond where the valve in question
closes. Personally, I like to turn the engine until one cylinder is 'on
balance', that is the exhaust valve is just closing and the intake is just
opening. Then you can set both valves on the cylinder that is opposite in
the firing sequence. A small table :
On balance Set
1 4
3 2
4 1
2 3
Hope this helps
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver TS39781LO
63 Sports 6 rustoration project HB7826LCV
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