Hello all,
I have an intriguing question (well I find it intriguing anyway). After I
rebuilt the front suspension on my TR6 last year (I replaced the bushes,
ball joints, tie rod ends, trunnions, spring seats/insulators - which were
non-existant, shock absorbers, and the RH vertical link) and put everything
else back as I found it (there's not a lot left), the camber on the RH wheel
went from negative to positive. Before you ask, yes, I replaced all the
fasteners, put the A-Arms on the correct way on both sides, and I put the
alignment shims back as they were too. The front LH wheel still has a
negative camber, but the front RH wheel has +1 degree camber. Can anyone
suggest a reason for this happening?
Some thoughts I had:
1. I had thought that it may have something to do with the spring
insulators, but then why did it only affect the RH side?
2. You can't stuff up the trunnion replacement and change the camber can you
(ie not screwing the trunnion on with enough turns on the vertical link)?
Again, I did the same thing to both sides here - so what's going on? Or
could the replacement vertical link be at fault?
3. Will adding alignment shims push the bottom A-Arm out sufficently to
bring the camber back into the acceptable range, and if so, is this an
acceptable fix?
4. I was thinking of getting a new suspension kit for all four quarters - ie
slightly lowered, uprated springs, new adjustable rate shockers all-round -
should I go for that and see how things pan out? Or should I try to fix the
camber problem before doing that? And whose kit should I go with - Moss,
TRF, Rimmer Bros?
Anyone have any comments?
Thanks,
Frank Biedermann
69 TR6 PI
Adelaide
AUSTRALIA
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