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Re: TR3 Engine Head Removal

Subject: Re: TR3 Engine Head Removal
From: Randall <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 07:42:45 -0800
Cc: triumph mailing list <triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <3C456912.411B3523@lancnews.infi.net>
Scott :

The dead blow mallet probably won't hurt, but IMO won't help either. 
I've also had trouble with the edge of the block crumbling away, if I
pried between the head and block too enthusiastically.  

One technique that seemed to work fairly well for me was to make up a
plate with bolts that thread into the rocker cover stud holes, and then
pry between the plate and the top of the cylinder studs.  Soaking things
in PB Blaster (or your favorite penetrating oil) may help too, as
sometimes water gets into the area between the studs and head, causing
all sorts of corrosion.

Another that I've heard of is to pack #1 and #4 with rope through the
spark plug holes, and then use the starter to turn the engine over.  The
rope is soft enough to not hurt anything.  You may have to repeat this
several times, turning the engine backwards by hand each time, and
perhaps adding more rope as the head starts to come free.  You can use
the battery, cables and solenoid off of the car to power the starter,
the only thing you need to add is a longer ground cable which can be
obtained at the local parts house (or junk yard).  May need to scrounge
some shorter bolts too, since the bellhousing won't be there.

You can also try removing the studs first, which makes it much easier to
get the head off (but of course ruins the studs).

Don't know about the engine stand, I've always pulled the head before I
got to the stand.  But, you might be able to rig a suitable catch (nylon
straps or a wooden platform) and turn the engine upside down to get
gravity to help.  That head is durned heavy !

Randall

suhring wrote:
> 
> I am having difficulty removing the head of the engine on the
> '59 TR3 restoration.  The engine is currently on a 3 leg stand,
> have removed the rocker, push rods and bolts.  I can't get the
> seal to release.
> 
> Will I be in trouble if I use a rubber dead blow mallet to "wack"
> the head to get it to release?  Should I take the engine off the
> stand so as to get better leverage with the engine on the ground?
> Since I plan to have the head and block cleaned and checked out at
> a local shop, should I let them do the dirty work?

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