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TR6, TR250, TR4A , TR4 Heating Tips (Long)

To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: TR6, TR250, TR4A , TR4 Heating Tips (Long)
From: "levilevi" <levilevi@attbi.com>
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 20:08:41 -0700
List,

There were a few people interested in my heater fan upgrade so I'm going to
put the info. out in general circulation.  Also I'm posting a little article I
wrote for our Rocky Mt. Triumph Club newsletter The Triumph Herald about some
heating tips.  Sorry this is so long, but maybe some will be warmer as a
result.

TR4-6 heater upgrade kit (squirrel cage fan)  812301X   56.40 (pounds)

                Moss Manchester
                113-117 Stockport Road
                Cheadle Heath, Stockport
                Cheshire, SK3 OJE
                Tel 0161 480 6402
                Fax 0161 429 0349

 They are also available through M & G International,Manchester, 0161
7739678, and M & G International, Merseyside, 0151 6661666.

It was advertised as a 60% improvement.   My estimate is more like
40%....but it does help and you can actually feel air being blown out the
outlets.

Some Hot Air  (Tips)

By Bud Rolofson



Not getting the heat you want in your TR4, TR4A, TR250, or TR6?  Are you
getting cold air through those dash air vents (the eyeball vents)?  These
Triumphs have a heater core that's about the same size of some American
station wagons so the potential for heat is there.  The trick is getting
maximum airflow through that heater core and where you need it.



Here's a few tips to help keep you a little warmer when you're out driving the
Triumph during one of our cool winter days or cool summer days for that
matter.



Don't expect to get hot air through the air vents (eyeball vents) in the dash
or the air vents that are under the dash because they are connected to the
heater box "above" the heater core and it's not possible to heat the air
before it comes flowing into your face or on your shins.  This is especially
true for you TR4 and TR4A people since your square dash vents don't even hook
up to the heater box.  These air vents were designed only for fresh air and
not heated air.  If you're trying to heat the interior or get heat to the
defroster/demister vents twist all four of those air vent center knobs closed.
Make sure all four are in working order otherwise you're going to always get
nice fresh (freezing) outside air into the interior and less air through the
heater core.

Heated air can (or should) only come out two places, the defroster/demister
vents or out the bottom of the heater box.  This is true for all of the models
mentioned above (and maybe some others I don't know about).  Your air
distribution knob on your dash lets you choose which one gets the heated air
and if you have a delicate touch you can get a little going to both.


If you look at a picture of the heater box in a catalog or in a manual you'll
get a better idea of what happens when you pull the air distribution knob and
what that does to the flap controlling air flow through the heater box.  The
heater core in the heater box is mounted at an angle between where the black
air hoses connect on both sides of the heater box  (highest hoses are for the
dash air vents and lowest hoses for the defroster/demister vents).  With the
air distribution knob pushed all the way in the flap stops airflow through the
heater core (by sealing the heater box right below the heater core) and that's
what you want in summer when you want unheated air coming through those dash
air vents.  With it pulled to the 1st  "detent" position the flap moves to a
position just below the lower black air hoses so air flows to the
defroster/demister vents after it's been heated up through the heater core.
If the air distribution knob is pulled out to the 2nd position the flap opens
up the bottom of the heater box and heated air flows out over the transmission
tunnel and heats up your right leg until it can't take it any more.



Mini Tips:



Those with pre-72 cars should open the scuttle vent cover in the winter.  It
increases airflow and thus heat into your interior.  Those with post-72 cars
don't have a cover on the scuttle vent only a black plastic grille so it's
open all the time....but I could be wrong about that too.



Try to get leaves and other debris off the heater core either by somehow
vacuuming them up with a small flexible hose duct taped (Red Green would be
proud*) to your shop vac and gently pushed down through the scuttle vent.  Or
by blowing some compressed air up through the bottom of the heater box (back
flush it) with the flap open and the scuttle vent open (or grille off).  Two
or three leaves on there can be blocking 25-30% of your heat flow.ask me how I
know this.



*The Red Green Show can be found on PBS.  He's the Champion of auto repairs
using duct tape.


Bud Rolofson
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)

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