Talked to Joe Curto yesterday and he emphasized the importance of float level
which for this carb was 1/8 inch clearance.The plastic floats like I have are
actually adjusted by putting varying shim washers under the needle seat. I was
talking to him about raising the float level somehow but he said the focus
should be on having the appropriate 1/8 inch of clearance. This didn't really
make sense since I had thought higher fuel level at the jet was necessary. Joe
said to much emphasis is placed on the level of fuel at the main jet.
So....last night I went out and using a combinaion of old and new stuff,
adjusted the floats down, to about 0.05, as good as I could get w/o shims and
things seemed to have improved. I plan on ordering some shims from Joe today
plus a needle that is richer on the top end and see what happens. I will keep
you updated.
Darcy Hunter
'73 TR6
North Easton, MA
Well, raising the level of the rear carb certainly ought to richen things up.
The plastic floats are adjustable, I think. Is there no metal at all on the
float? I think there is a metal tab which pushes on the valve? If not,
maybe the valve is adjustable by screwing it in/out. I know TR6's were
retrofitted with
SUs so it is possible.
I never noticed much of a tilt to the TR6 engine. But you notice it is
definitely there.... I have a TR7 (and am fitting
SU carbs) I did not notice any tilt of this engine.....
If necessary, you could probably fit an older float top to the float chamber.
As far as I can tell, the TR4A
SU carbs are virtually exactly the same as TR7 carbs except for the biased
needle and the fitting for the
pcv. Even the choke linkages are the same (non waxstat).
You MUST address the float level prior to anything else. It ought not be too
hard to do. (easy to say!)
-Tony
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