Randall:
I have exactly the same problem as one of the ones Noah Freeman wrote about
earlier this week, to wit:
-fuel/temp guages reading correctly and exactly
-blinkers blinking, but dash light not doing anything (weird)
-generator light ALWAYS on, amp meter never going up to zero, always
negative,
I printed out your response to him and ran the tests suggested.
> Engine off :
> 1) Double check the mechanical stuff : fan belt present and snug,
> generator snug on mounts, wires firmly connected to generator, etc. You
> should only be able to turn the generator fan with great difficulty, if
> at all. If the generator has been off the car, it's worth repolarizing
> it.
OK.
> 2) remove the wire from the 'F' terminal on the control box
> (regulator). Measure the resistance between the F and D terminals, it
> should be under 1 ohm. If not, the control box is bad.
>
I have an analog multitester and frankly am not certain I'm reading this
right. With the dial set at X1 (as opposed to X10 or X1K), the needle moves
just a little to the 45 on the scale. At X10, the reading is 7, and at X1K,
its off the far end.
> 3) Measure the resistance between the wire that came off the F terminal
> and ground. It should be between 5 and 10 ohms. If not, either the
> generator or (more likely) the wiring is bad.
X1 = 15, X10 = 3, X1K = 1.5
> Put the wires back, Start the engine, and set it for a fast idle
> (1500-2000 rpm)
> 4) Terminal E to battery ground post should be under 1.0 volts. If not,
> you have a bad ground. Also check from E to the generator housing.
Meter set at 10v.
No discernible movement at all.
> 5) Measure D to E. This should be around 13-15v, if it is then the
> generator is working. Higher indicates a bad regulator.
2-3 volts
> 6) Assuming D-E is under 13v, compare it with A-E. If they are the
> same, the ignition lamp should be out. If not, the wiring to the lamp
> is wrong.
Set at 10v, off the far end strongly.
> 7) Also assuming D-E is under 13v, check D-F. It should be under 1.0v,
> if not, the regulator is bad or badly misadjusted. One exception to
> this is if the ammeter is reading a lot of charge at this point, 15 amps
> or more, which could indicate a bad or deeply discharged battery.
5-6 volts.
8) As a final check, (again assuming step 5 was under 13v) stop the
> engine, remove both wires from the generator, jumper the terminals
> together and connect the voltmeter from either terminal to ground.
> Start the engine. Rev no higher than about 750 rpm, and check the
> voltmeter reading. If you don't get at least 15v, the generator is
> definitely bad.
Did this one a while ago. Good strong reading at the jumped terminals on the
generator.
According to the book, around 4-8v indicates a bad
> armature or brushes, around 1v indicates a bad field. If you do get
> 15v, reconnect the wires and repeat the test with the F and D wires at
> the regulator. If you get different results here, then the wires are
> bad.
>
At the F and D terminals, 5-6 volts.
Yikes! I just re-ran the tests before I post this and the results are the
same but when I leaned into the car to turn it off, the ammeter was swinging
from one side to the other - end to end like a pendulum. Then it would stop
in the middle for a second and then swing wildly again for a bit for several
seconds.
Should I forget the mechanics and get an exorcist?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Jim
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