Regarding some conversations on suspension upgrades on TR6's, I am of the
conviction that when replacing front or rear suspension bushings with a
plastic type, the important part is to ensure the distance piece, or
"ferule" is securely clamped between the ears of the fulcrum bracket. The
new plastic
bushing must not turn within the swingarm in the rear, or within the
wishbone in the
front. The bushing must move around the stationary distance piece only. In
the case of the trunnion, it (the trunnion) should be clamped solidly
between the distance pieces and the washers on either end. You will see that
as the suspension moves up and down,
the bolt will remain motionless relative to the trunnion. (This is where the
50 ft lbs torque setting comes in.) If the bolt
is left loose, the bolt will be turning within the brass trunnion, wearing
the hole oblong. Perhaps more dangerous, is the tendency for the distance
piece to wear a groove in the bolt, leading to a stress riser. This area of
stress could lead to a fracture and untold scratches on the lower wishbone.
In
my installation, I had to adjust the spacing between the ends of the
distance piece and the outer "flange" of the bushings to achieve a slight
clearance. When completed, the suspension will move through it's range of
motion effortlessly, (spring removed) unlike rubber bushed examples, where
the distance piece is bonded to the rubber. This means all tightening can be
done with the suspension in the full droop with no adverse effect.
It was necessary for me to remove my swingarms after the original
installation due to "groaning". I found that I had not been diligent enough
when installing the poly bushings, and had not fully seated them in the
swingarm. This left them projecting too far, and rubbing on the ears of the
fulcrum. This time, I drilled and tapped holes in the bottom of the swingarm
between the bushing halves and installed grease fittings. Now, every spring
or fall I can give them a shot, and no squeak!
Does this make any sense?
Dennis
'73 TR6
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