Michael Ferguson wrote:
>
> 1) Are stainless bolts, suitable for this application, available? I assume
> there's a good reason why the ends of these are pointed, but could I use a
> regular hardware store item if stainless is not available with the pointed
> end?
Stainless is available, without the points. ISTR you want a 1/4-28 hex
cap bolt, 5/8" long (although 1/2" will do). The points make assembly
easier (especially on the assembly line) but are not essential (except
for correctness of course). TRF sells the correct pointed bolts (which
you will have to paint body color to be strictly correct).
> 2) Will Copaslip keep the new bolts and original nuts from rusting or will I
> have to replace the nuts with stainless as well in order to accomplish that
> feat? If so, would it also work if I opt for plated rather than stainless
> bolts?
My daily driver has mostly cad plated bolts in the original (chased with
a tap) nuts. I used a product similar to Copaslip roughly 15 years ago,
they still come out easily. (In fact, a little too easily, I sometimes
find that one has started out on it's own. I recommend replacing the
original lock washers with new cad-plated to prevent this problem.) Of
course, they don't salt the roads where I live and drive, so YMMV.
> Actually, my biggest problem on disassembly was that, while the bolts were
> stuck in the nuts, they weren't THAT stuck
ISTR having the same problem, the first time I took my car apart, in
fact some of them I was able to remove intact by sliding the vise grips
inside the apron and grabbing the cage. It would probably be best to
replace the cages, as they will be weakened after being bent and rebent,
but I didn't do it.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
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