"Westerdale, Bob" wrote:
> There are two adjustments, which must be done in the order as listed
> below.
I agree with Bob, but would like to add a couple of points :
IMO a cheap ($25) dial indicator and magnetic base is a worthwhile
investment, even if you never use it for anything else. Trying to feel
for drag in the bearings as you tighten the front cover just isn't
accurate enough, especially if the bearings are oily. Too tight will
damage bearings just as surely as too loose. Be sure your adjustment is
at least close before torquing the cover screws down hard. Just
torquing them to spec with all the shims out will damage the bearings
and/or races/worm.
Loosen the top cover set screw before measuring the bearing end float.
A tight screw can cause a false reading.
When adjusting the set screw in the top cover, you should have the
silentbloc disconnected from the drop (pitman) arm. (In fact, it's best
to have the entire unit out of the car, which of course is a giant
PITA.) With the steering disconnected, there should only be the very
slightest of resistance at the tight spot(s), just barely detectable
(assuming the worm and peg are still oily). If the tight spot is in the
center, that's an indication the worm and peg are in good shape. If
there are two tight spots (or one way off to the side), the worm and/or
(more likely) peg are worn to some extent. Note that the arm is not
exactly parallel to the column at the 'center'.
I use Valvoline synthetic 75w90 gear oil in my steering box. IMO grease
is a desperation measure, which causes hard steering and rapid wear.
Once you have the drop arm off, replacing the bushing and seal isn't
difficult ...
I followed these rules when rebuilding my steering box a few years back,
and even though my worm looks like it's been chewed on by a stainless
steel rat, I can change lanes with only thumb and forefinger.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
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