Jim,
It sounds like it is indeed stuck. First, pull your spark plugs, and put
about a tablespoon of penetrating oil into each cylinder. "Marvel Mystery
Oil" might work, but a good penetrating oil should do the job. Then go read
a book. Let it set that way for a day or so, then try a socket wrench and
breaker bar on the crank pulley nut- you might be able to rock it to start
it moving. But remember- too much pushing in the counter-clockwise direction
may break the nut loose if the engine is really tight.
If the crankshaft starts to rock, then the crank is free, and if the whole
thing starts to turn through now, the engine has freed- but don't go
starting her yet- or even spinning her over. Once you've determined she's
movable, pull the distributer and base casting(so you don't knock out your
timing) and remove the oil pump/distributor drive gear. Be sure you have
fresh oil in the engine, and make part of it about a quart of "Marvel
Mystery Oil" (It is a little thinner than regular oil, but seems to do neat
things.) Use a Makita cordless drill and a screwdriver (I have an old 6 or
8" long one where the handle broke years back) and set the direction of the
drill for "Reverse". Set the tip of the screwdriver(BLADE- NOT PHILLIPS!)
into the slot in the top of the oil pump shaft, and slowly run the oil pump
till oil starts spitting through the distributor hole- after that, just keep
spinning a few minutes to "prime" the system.
This should feed oil into all the passages, and lubricate the engine without
it running. Afterwards, turn the engine manually, into compression strokee
TDC on your number 1 cylinder, look at your service manual to find the pic
of where the distributor drive gear should point (usually, a ruler laid in
line with the slot should aim at the screw on piece for the oil filter- but
your shop manual will tell you) Then re-set in your distributor. You have
just also manually set your ignition timing.
If the crank doesn't start to move manually with the socket/breaker bar
combination, you may have other issues with the crank bearings being bound.
That might necessitate pulling the engine, and taking the lower end apart. I
hope not though.
Good luck with it-
Scott
64 Herald 1200 Convertible, who, too, is awaiting her first start in a
while..
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ct54531@aol.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 10:22 AM
Subject: Stuck Engine
>
> Does anyone have a quick overview of the various methods of unsticking an
> engine (65 4A)? I know it's been discussed before and I did pay attention
> (honest!) but since I'd turned it over before putting it up on blocks
about a
> year and a half ago, I didn't think it would really be stuck.
> Now I have to say that I haven't pulled the starter and may do so but we
put
> power to the solenoid and what we got was a single sound that sounded like
> the power got to the starter but the engine just wouldn't budge. (BTW,
> though, when I hit the rubber button on the solenoid, about every third
time
> there was different whirring/spinning sound coming from the starter).
> We tried rolling the car with it in gear and got enough ooomph behind it
to
> make the car go forward but unfortunately the tires weren't rotating --
just
> sliding along the ground. I know about turning the crankshaft and I gave
that
> a very halfhearted effort because I'm concerned about breaking something.
In
> that method, where exactly does one get the most efficient grip.
> Also, a neighbor -- quite knowledgeable about cars (especially electrics
and
> he felt the sounds we heard were power getting to the starter and the
bendix
> gear being engaged so he felt the engine was stuck, too) -- suggested
getting
> at the flywheel with a pry and turning it from there. Is this a
> viable/preferred suggestion? Easy to get to?
> Any and all help appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Jim
> 65 4A
> CT54531L
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