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re:OD - A-Type - Tough Question on Sun Gear End Float (long)

To: Brian Sanborn <sanborn@net1plus.com>, Triumph List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: re:OD - A-Type - Tough Question on Sun Gear End Float (long)
From: Anthony Rhodes <ARhodes@compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 22:11:17 -0500
Brian,
I have JUST finished up my OD, and I can not take it apart to make the 
measurements!

I, too, think that the recommended measurement technique is just too crude!!!!! 
 I had
a  devil of a time making my float measurement.  I decided to bring the
2 halves of the case together evenly by using feeler guages on both sides
of the case and using 2 nuts on opposide sides, next to the gauges to set
a certain gap, then feel for binding as I turned the mainshaft in the OD.
If it moved smoothly, then go one step thinner (usually in increments of 2 
thou).
I got to the point where there was just the slightest bind and I called
that "zero" float.  I then had to thin out a thrust washer to set the
float. 

If you can believe it, I had about 60 thou of float before replacing ALL
the washers.  The ones I took out did not look bad, but they were definietly
worn severely.  One of the washers was very hard to get!  I did not thin that
one!!

I got the float set to the exact middle of the recommended range.  I think
the OD will work fine if you have a little too much float. (my 60 thou was 
working
fine as far as I could tell!)

The OD is a very simple, cool, piece of machinery, no?

SO, In summary,  DEFINITELY replace ALL the bronze thrust washers (three
of them as I remember), then check the float.  Alternate steel adjusting washers
are available in certain sizes if you need, but I thinned the 
cheapest bronze one for my OD.

Have fun.  Did you check the float of the annulus in the tail housing?
I had too much trouble and gave up on that one.

What did you do to reassemble your roller clutch?  I used a big hose
clamp gently.

It is possible to get a new bronze steady bush installed and then a machinist 
can line
bore it, but I hate to think of the cost!  I trust that mine is OK.

-Tony




>Message text written by INTERNET:owner-triumphs-digest@autox.team.net
>From: "Brian Sanborn" <sanborn@net1plus.com>
>Subject: OD - A-Type - Tough Question on Sun Gear End Float (long)
>
>Listers,
>
>To anyone with experience in this OD rebuild.
>
>I am in the final re-assembly stage of my OD rebuild and have hit
>a problem with the Sun Gear end float.  I have a measured .042
>when the allowable is .008 - .014.  All the parts are there and I
>have made a very precise measurement of this using a different
>method than the very rough one shown in the manual. I need to
>close this up at least .031 to get to a median end float of .011
>
>I measured my end float using the depth feature of a dial
>caliper... first measuring the depth of the front case flange to
>the back steady bush... plus the depth of the rear case flange to
>the surface of the annulus... then add the thickness of the brake
>ring. You can then subtract the length of the sun gear and its 3
>thrust washers and the distance piece. The rough method used in
>the manual using a feeler gauge, came up with a low confidence
>number .049.  I needed a more precise calculation because this
>number was not expected and didn't make sense.
>
>I have not replaced any the bronze thrust washers because they
>don't seem worn and are smooth... no marks.  You are supposed to
>adjust this end float by swapping out the steel distance ring for
>one of the alternate sizes... but they only come as big as .113
>and the current one is .098... that is only a difference of .015.
>Something else is wrong.
>
>I am assuming that although the 3 bronze thrust washers look OK
>they must have lost some thickness in the many years this OD was
>in service. I am prepared to buy all new thrust washers if they
>are available.  Is it the normal practice to replace these?
>
>My thrust washer thickness measurements are:
>
>Behind unidirectional clutch .116
>At planet gear housing       .091
>On top of sun gear           .095
>
>Does anyone know the nominal thickness of these when new?
>
>The other component that contributes to end float is the rear
>steady bush in the front case.  The "brim" of this bush is .110
>and does show some wear.  But,  I have read that the two steady
>bushes can't be replaced because the parts are not available...
>and if they were they need to be line bored. The manual says to
>purchase a new front case if these are worn... not possible
>anymore.
>
>My only guess is that the 3 bronze washers have lost enough to
>add up to the missing .031.
>
>I know this is a complicated tough question but any advice or
>experience would be very helpful in raising my confidence level.
>I have talked with John Esposito at Quantum Mechanics about this
>a week ago but for some reason he has not returned my call.  If
>all else fails, I will order the new bushes from Quantum, TRF,
>Moss or ORS (Overdrive Repair Services) in the UK and experiment.

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