Yes Indeed!!
There is a big difference between siezed and stiff. I've built a
few motors that have been a bit too tight for the starter to spin on inital
startup. Once you get it started, it'll loosen up. For the present,
though, manually turning the motor over 1 complete turn will at least prove
there is no true interference. Still, don't force anything.... pull the
plugs out for this exercise, and Alan@Roverworks makes a good point about
possible pinching in the Distrib. clamp. proceed slowly, as any unecessary
force can make a real mess of things...
Altenative investigation....
If you have a voltmeter, and you are sure the battery is good, hook
1 lead to the big wire on the starter and the other on the engine block.
have someone hit the starter, and make sure the starter voltage doesn't drop
below about 9 volts. I understand it is trying to drive a large mech. load,
so make the measurement for only a FEW seconds.... IF the voltage seems to
momentarily diaappear, you have an electrical problem in the high current
cables.. ( You did put the ground strap back on the engine, right?) Once in
a while, you can find an intermittant connection that will seem fine when
conducting 10 amps ( ie lights work) but falls flat when asked for the
starter current. This type of fault can actually appear to 'heal itself',
as the lights will work again after the starter button is released. This
could explain the starter slamming into the ring gear OK, but failing to
turn the motor. BTDT.
hang in there...
Bob Westerdale
59 3A TS 36967
hear the solenoid throw the gear into the flywheel with that classic
resounding engagement and then the crank moves about 1/8" (it is NOT
completely frozen which gives me some hope). I installed all the parasite
parts myself.
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