In a message dated 12/9/00 4:24:13 PM Pacific Standard Time,
hansenc@flash.net writes:
<< The floor fell off.
I'll assume that's not supposed to happen :-)
More heat? Slower wire? Buy a spot welder?
Thanks, >>
Ack! no fun.
The solution: Practice on some odds and ends first.
Be sure the holes are large enough. ~ 1/4 is usually good for sheet metal.
A little larger is OK as long as you don't exceed the width of the flange.
The thicker the steel the larger the hole needed.
The drilled hole and flange must fit tightly together. Use C clamps, Vise
Grips , steel weights , prybars or even a well placed steel pop rivet or two.
Crank the heat up a bit, with the mass of the flange and floor edge it takes
a bit more heat than usual.
Start at the center of the hole and let the wire arc to the flange not the
drilled hole. Build a small mound then move in a circular motion to connect
the flange mound to the drilled hole.
Having the heat cranked up a bit keeps the mound liquid allowing it to flow.
With the proper heat and technique, the back of the flange should be just
short of burning through. It should have a nice round apperance.
On a related note, you have now learned the technique for filling drilled
trim holes!
If you want to fill a unwanted trim hole, do the welding from the back.
Start ~ 1/16" outside the edge of the hole and move inwards with a circular
motion. If you start on the edge of the hole it will tend to burn and make
the hole larger. If you think the weld is going to burn through, release the
trigger but don't move the torch. Squeeze the trigger again in a second or
two. As the weld cools it will produce a slight depression that is just
right for a quick swipe of body filler.
Harold
|