Hi All,
What I am hearing here collectively is that I have the following pieces of
information:
- Unknown usage of the axle.
- Unknown length of time since last usage
- Since not currently part of a vehicle cannot tell if the bearing is bad.
- I only want to do this job once and be assured that I have a well sealed
axle.
So, in light of these pieces of information:
- Remove the hub & shaft and take them to get separated.
- replace the bearings and the seals with new ones.
- of course drain and replace the diff oil, replace it's gasket as well.
Have I just about covered it???
Thanks
David A. Templeton
Open Text Corp.
Waterloo, ON
Canada
WebSite: http://trandmustang.homestead.com
Mailing List: http://www.egroups.com/group/wbcc
'74 Triumph SpitSix '66 Ford Mustang (Wife's)'66 Ford Mustang GT '59
Triumph TR3a (Project) '99 GMC Safari '95 GMC K2500 Sierra
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Justin Paxton [mailto:justin@bexel.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2000 7:47 PM
> To: davidt@opentext.com
> Cc: Triumph Newsletter
> Subject: Churchill tools / Hub Puller
>
>
> Randall is correct except it is not necessary to pull the hub off
> to inspect
> the bearing which is what you said you wanted to do (he is also
> right about
> the outer seal - in fact Randall's right about almost everything - I think
> we should change the newsletter to "Ask Randall"). Unless you
> suspect that
> the bearing is bad (ie: that expensive noise coming from the axle), I
> suggest you wait, pull the axle, inspect it, and replace the bearing if
> necessary. If the hub has been off in recent history, it may
> remove easily.
> If that is the case, it's easier to take the hub off than remove
> the 6 bolts
> on the back side of the backing plate save the hassle and expense
> of getting
> access/buying a hub puller (not cheap). My experience is with hubs that
> have been on there since Paleolithic Man and do not come off easily.
> Conical fit tapers can weld themselves together after 40 years
> that you need
> nitro to separate. In that case, the press is not only easier, but far
> safer, and in some cases less expensive. (like mine where I pulled the
> freekin lug nuts THROUGH the hub trying to get it off - new hubs
> are pricey
> - $200)
> THX: JP
> 59 TR3A TS40984 "Parts All Over the House"
> Note: Killer tip from Ed Purcell:
> I wrote: The axle seal is a BITCH to get out. I was going to
> invent a special tool to do it-----
> He wrote: I use a box end wrench with a one inch or so offset to work this
> seal out. By offset I mean it looks kinda like this
> /----
> /---------------------------/
> ----/
>
> >> Someone's confused here, perhaps it's me. You cannot change the wheel
> >> bearing or outer seal without separating the hub from the
> axle. If you are
> using the Churchill (or similar) tool, it's easier to separate
> the hub with
> the axle still in the housing, simply because the housing helps hold the
> axle. Of course, if you are using a press as Justin suggests, you have to
> pull the axle first. Randall 59 TR3A daily driver
>
>
> >>>> All I realy want to do is to inspect & replace the bearings
> and seals. Are
> >>>> you saying I can pull the axle as a single unit to do and
> not go through
> >>>> the pain of separating the hub? From: David A. Templeton
> <davidt@opentext.com>
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