Dave,
When doing my TR6 frame (same as your TR4A frame), I was also in the same
quandary that you are in. My choice, having a very good frame to begin
with, was to power sand all surfaces of the frame I could reach, and then
use arm power around the transmission mounts, intricate front suspension
points, .... I tried several methods, which included using both a wire
wheel and a 3M product that attaches to a drill and removes paint. The wire
wheel was the least effective (only slightly better than hand sanding). The
3M product was nice, but I didn't feel it did the job quick enough (I didn't
want to destroy a drill, after all).
The method of choice for me was a 4 1/2 inch grinder and trading between
both a 60 grit and an 80 grit flap wheel attachment. (you can pick up a
flap wheel where you purchase grinder wheels.) This method was effective,
efficient, and it got results. I saved the 3M product (attached to my
drill) for the tough to reach areas.
I chose to use POR-15 for the paint. Testimonials I have received are that
this stuff is great. I liked the fact that it seals the surface, is chip
resistant, and looks great. I added the POR-15 Chassis Coat Black as the
top coat to the POR-15, as regular POR-15 supposedly changes color from
ultraviolet light.
Lastly, prior to painting, check very closely for cracked welds all over the
frame. Places to note are: Steering rack area, front suspension areas,
shock towers, and the differential areas. My frame was in great shape, but
I found several cracked welds. Since finding these, other TR4A, TR250 and
TR6 owners in my area have found the same problems. My feeling is that
these are known stress points, and should be re-welded. I beefed up these
welds, and am very happy I did so. I even beefed up areas that didn't show
cracks, but were stress points.
Good luck! Let the list know when you are 2% complete. 8^)
Eric Conrad
'76 TR6 - Been there, still doing it.
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