Drew wrote:
Snip->
The only thing I could think of that would cause this
was that the cam had been broken (always assume the worst) causing
the valve timing for the #4 cylinder to go out and allowing the piston
to bash into the valves.
unsnip <-
Lucky Guy- My fuel pump lever pin fell halfway out, I pushed it
back in and drove another few miles whereupon it fell out again and
yes, the camshaft snapped, just like you feared. Fortunately,
the valve doesn't stay open, and no piston crashing occurs.
snip->
I'm going to take the block and head somewhere to get them cleaned out
and was wondering if this will remove the rust build up? I'm also
concerned about the aluminum plugs in the head and oil gallery. Does
the cleaning solution used to clean things up eat aluminum?
unsnip<-
If your engine guy doesn't clean ALL the crap out, you shouldn't pay
him.
If he is a good guy, he will replace all those Al plugs anyway,
and clean out the oil passageways as well.
snip->
I'm not sure but it looks like there may be a crack in the web that runs
across the block between the number two and three cylinders. It looks to
start at the top of the web and runs to the rectangular hole. Is this
common and is it significant? I'm not sure that it's really a crack. It
may be the imprint of a crack in the pattern used to make the mold for
the block (wishfull thinking).
unsnip<-
Your engine guy should be able to a crack test- Magnaflux or a dye
test-
to see if it is a real crack. Cast iron can be welded, although it
may re
quire some touch up machining to any sealing surfaces. Better have
a
good look here, this is not something to ignore.....
Good luck,
Bob Westerdale
59 3A TS36967E
|