Message text written by INTERNET:Eganb@aol.com
>I'm trying to replace the main crank bearings on the car, and I am having
a
hell of a time getting old top ones out, and the new top ones in. #2,3,4
went in without too much complaining, but #1 and 5 have fought me all the
way. I have had to tap the old ones out with various thin instruments
including a kitchen knife, and the news ones have refused to go in without
additional tapping.
In the process I have scratched and nicked the crankshaft where the
bearings
ride, a real no-no, and I had to do so much tapping on the end of #1 that I
think I closed off the center oil channel. And now of course I can't get
the
bloody thing back out.
I'm already resigned to buying another set of bearings, but isn't there
some
way to get some slack on the crank to make this less painful?
As to the scratches and nicks on the crankshaft, just hold my breath?
<
I went through this on my TR6 only a couple of years ago. One trick
outlined by Len Renkenberger in his book "SixTech" to get the upper shells
in and out is to find a box nail that fits faily snugly into the oil hole
(probably an 8 penny) in the crankshaft and cut it down in length so that
it fits into the hole with the head only protruding. Set the shell in
place, insert the nail and rotate the crank to push the shell either in or
out.
Another thing to remember is to do one main at a time but loosen the two
adjacent main caps to allow a little drop in the crank. Oh, and when doing
#1, slacken the fan belt. You may also need to slacken the timing chain.
As far as the knicks, If there is no burr sticking up you are probably
fine. When I did mine there was knick on the journal throw with a burr.
The burr dug a groove in the bearing shell. (This was done by a PO) I
drove this car for many years like this. All the way to Colorado and back.
No problems. I bought a fine millwright file and filled off the burr and
reassembled with new bearings and the oil pressure has been wonderfull ever
since.
Dave
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