Bob,
I recently did mine after some good advice from some listers. I do have a
torque wrench, but you don't have to have it. Tighen the nut so that the
wheel won't turn at all to start. (Don't overdo it.) I found that backing
off only one flat from 10 ft-lbs, which happened to line up with a hole, did
the trick. Anything more than that felt too wobbly when grabbing top and
bottom of the wheel. My bearings and races happened to be OK, but I did put
in new grease seals. Now that I have driven the car a couple of hundred
miles I will jack it up and check it again. The felt will compress in new
grease seals and I may have to tighten it one more flat.
Sumner Weisman
62 TR3B TSF263L
Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2000 22:29:00 -0500
From: Bob and Nancy <wises@mail.execpc.com>
Subject: TR3 Front hubs?
Dear TR3 Intelligentsia,
I rebuilt the front hubs on my TR3 today with new inner and outer
bearings and races. The book says to load the bearing nut to 10
ft.lb (I made a guess at this) then back off 1.5 to 2 flats depending
on alignment of the cotter pin holes. When I did that I got a wheel
with a lot of play in it. Grabbing the top and bottom of the wheel
and shaking produced a lot of rattling. So I snugged the nut up one
flat which took out the rattle.
Did I do the right thing? How loose should the front wheels be? Any ideas?
Bob
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