Eric,
Generally, you need to perform other operations on an engine (raising
compression
& improving breathing/exhaust) to get the benefit of a hotter cam. If your
engine is still apart, my recommendation would be to get the rotating parts
balanced and, if your budget allows, get the head intakes/exhausts cleaned up
a bit (by someone who has done porting on a TR head). My TR6, for instance,
has a hotter cam, but it also has a cleaned up head, increased compression,
better exhaust, and improved intake. There is an excellent article on Camshafts
at http://www.elgincams.com/campaper.html
Your Mileage May Vary,
Hugh Barber
Hollister, CA
'73 TR6
>
>Could anyone help me with choosing a cam. My TR6 engine is machined with 20
>thousands over on bore, no shaving of the head (other than to correct minor
>warpage), and the head was rebuilt with hardened exhaust seats, and a
>three-angle grind. I plan on the TR6 being purely a road car - with much
>better oil pressure after the rebuild (I hope). Other than the machine-work
>mentioned above, I plan on using the same carburetor / intake manifold, and
>the same exhaust manifold that splits into two exhaust pipes for the 1976
>version of the car.
>
>Is a "hotter" cam warranted here? If so, what level would still offer the
>best "fun", while still being drivable in all ranges of driving - highway
>and city? Also, I'm still wanting to pass emissions once in Colorado, so
>this is also an issue I have to keep in mind.
>
>Thanks,
>Eric
>'76 TR6 -- block and head are finally completed, I just have to go to
>pick
>them up from the machine shop! Another check-off on my restore "To-Do"
>list.
>
>
>
|