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to fan or not to fan

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: to fan or not to fan
From: Rick Pam <rpam@stanford.edu>
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 11:20:29 -0700
Cc: las@alaska.net
 >>From: Bill & Skip Pugh <anabil@caltel.com>
 >>Reply-To: Bill & Skip Pugh <anabil@caltel.com>
 >>To: triumphs@autox.team.net
 >>Subject: Fan or not to Fan
 >>Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 16:40:31 -0700
 >>
 >>I have ordered an electric fan for my  57 TR3A, it is my intention to
 >>remove the old belt driven fan.  Is there a downside to this?  Can I
 >>just simply remove it or are there parts that need to go back to hold
 >>things together?
 >>
 >>Any help/advice gratefully accepted.
 >>
 >>Bill Pugh
 >>57 TR3A
 >
 >     Your timing is rather convenient as I just did this to my TR4.
 >     After years of thinking about it (and after a nasty vibration
 >     developed in the fan assembly) I finally bought a harmonic
 >     balancer for my TR4. This forced me to deal with replacing the
 >     late TR4 fan with an electric model. The "stock" fan did
 >     admirably keeping my car cool... In a way I was sad to see it go.
 >
 >     I bought a 13" high performance fan from my local NAPA-like parts
 >     store. Hook-up was uneventful however while the fan would hold at
 >     185f while running when stopped in trafffic the temp would rise
 >     rather significantly. Considering the car would normally run
 >     between 175-185f this was not good. I believe the plastic faring
 >     on the fan was restricting air flow through the core of the
 >     radiator.
 >
 >     I replaced the entire fan and wiring kit with a 14" Perma Cool fan
 >     that I purchased from Summit Racing supply I had to fabricate a
 >     frame from aluminum to hold the fan to the radiator, in a "puller"
 >     set-up and slot the botttom mounts on the radiator to allow it to
 >     slide forward about 1/2". Of course I had to adjust the upper
 >     radiator support brackets as well. Wiring was simple. I used the
 >     relay/thermostat set up from Perma-Cool. The fan draws 30 Amps,
 >     which is handled very well by the Ford Alternator that I installed
 >     in my `4 a number of years ago.
 >
 >     Now that I've written all the above let me make a recommendation
 >     for you to try first. This will save you money in the long haul.
 >     I presume your `3 has had it's cooling system checked out
 >     carefully... If not flush it thoroughly. You should have the air
 >     shroud in place and in good shape. Have the radiator cleaned and
 >     possibly rodded out to make sure you have the most cooling
 >     capacity. Then get a late TR4 fan installed on the stock location,
 >     with all new bushings etc (the TR3 fan is notorious for not being
 >     able to pull fuzz off a dandelion... I know... I had one. The
 >     early `4's came with the same fan).
 >
 >     Good luck,
 >
 >     Greg Petrolati
 >
 >Greg Petrolati Champaign, Illinois
 >1962 TR4 (CT4852L)
 >
 >>

an underscore on the electrical part:  we did the same on a 66 TR4a -- 
harmonic dampener and Hayden 12" electric fan in a pusher configuration, 
with the same result:  temp ok when moving, temp rise when idling.  Yes, 
the fan blades are turning the proper direction, the radiator core is new 
and the block has recently been rebuilt and cleaned out.  Unlike Greg, I'm 
still using the stock Lucas generator (already in need of a rebuild).  The 
fan draws about 10A, so the generator is able to keep up with lights on.

Greg -- good to hear the larger fan will solve the cooling problem.  Rather 
than rebuild the Lucas generator and risk still not having enough current 
capacity, I plan to upgrade the fan and go to the larger alternator.  How 
many amps is yours rated for, Greg?  Any suggestions from others?  It seems 
there are ~40, ~60 and  ~90 Amp alternators available.  I've read Dan 
Masters' web page, but have heard debates over 1-wire vs a 3-wire alternator.


Rick Pam
66 TR4A on loan from Alaska



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