Ted, I don't know anything about the J-Type, but my A-Type did the same
thing when I first installed it (after sitting idle for who knows how long).
According to the Laycock manual (A-Type), there are four possible reasons:
1) Blocked restrictor jet in Operating Valve (remove valve and clear jet)
2) Elect. control not operating correctly (short in wiring or faulty relay)
3) Solenoid lever not set correctly or solenoid plunger sticking
OR my personal favorite...
4) Sticking Cone Clutch
Mine was number 4
>From the manual..."This fault has been known to occur as a result of heating
up after a long run on a new unit, before the linings are fully bedded in.
The clutch invariably releases itself when it has cooled down a little, or
IT CAN BE RELEASED BY GIVING THE CASE A SHARP TAP WITH A HIDE HAMMER OVER
THE BRAKE RING BETWEEN THE BODY OF THE OVERDRIVE AND THE REAR COVER."
In my case, I was desperate and was willing to try anything! Took it for a
drive with the gearbox cover off. Third or fourth gear, reached down with a
small ball peen hammer (ok, so I don't have a leather one) and tapped once
on the flange where the rear cover meets the main OD case (not all that hard
actually) and it immediately released! That was 2-3 months ago and it has
never failed since - including a 1000 mile trip to Virginia and back. You
might want to consider putting the car on jack stands if you don't relish
the thought of driving it without the gearbox cover (noisy, smelly, hot,
plus the u-joint is right next to your, uh...seat!)
Good luck! Hope your problem is that easy to fix!
Michael Ferguson
1959 TR3A TS53990L...O!
----------
>From: "Theodore R. Stevens" <stevens@erols.com>
>To: triumphs@autox.team.net
>Subject: J-type overdrive sticking, and speedo cable question
>Date: Sun, Aug 6, 2000, 8:33 AM
>
>
> My overdrive conversion seems to be going pretty well. Thanks to several
> listers for answers regarding flywheel bolts and clutch shaft bushes. So
> far the most frustrating part was moving the gearbox mount to the rearmost
> mounting holes in the frame.
>
> I've got everything bolted up now, and went for a test drive. No leaks,
> and all gears seem to work, EXCEPT, overdrive is engaged all the time. I
> haven't even hooked up the electrical connections to the solenoid, so I
> assume something is stuck or jammed. I did momentarily apply voltage to the
> solenoid with the car stopped, and it did go "click", so I assume it's not
> the problem.
>
> From those who've "been there, done that" what should my next course of
> action be? I know that engaging reverse gear with the OD stuck like this
> is an absolute no-no. Is there an easy way to discern whether this is a
> stuck valve versus a stuck one-way clutch? I assume the stuck cone clutch
> is the more likely, since it started right out with OD engaged, before
> pressure would have built up to engage it.
>
> I also have a question about the speedometer cable. The standard cable
> does reach, and can even be attached without the right-angle gear I'm
> missing. However, it passes right over the exhaust pipes. Right now, I
> have it wired to the transmission with baling wire to keep it away from the
> pipes, but I assume there's a more elegant solution. How is the
> speedometer cable routed in cars with factory o/d? I don't see anything in
> the manual about this.
>
> Thanks again for all the valuable input. If I learn anything on my own,
> I'll share it with the list.
>
> Ted Stevens
> stevens@erols.com
> 74 TR6 with OD transplant
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