Hi List!
I waited a day or so [giving TR Digest people time to respond] to give
you the results of my received messages on the thread "spin-off" of
"Tranny Woes", titled: "Transmission woes-Poping out of 3rd gear". This
is what was received in condense form:
----------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: Transmission woes-Poping out of 3rd gear
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 15:47:56 -0600
From: "Michael D. Porter" <mporter@zianet.com>
Organization: Barely enough
To: J&E <ebk@buffnet.net>
J&E wrote:
> Hi list!
> To follow this thread with a twist:
> I too have been having problems of 3rd gear but slightly different systems.
>My
> tranny worked fine for 300 miles until I installed: the Trany Tunnel, Center
>Support
> Dash, & carpet. Then it started popping out of 3rd gear after I stopped
>accerlating
> [or when "crusing"]. Then after the tranny runs for about 2 hr. It will
>intermitly pop
>out of 3rd gear when in "cruse" mode.
> Question: Is the infomation given to the other list member sill apply
> to my
>problem, or is just "some" of the infomation given in the past apply?
It's possible that it may be something mechanical in the transmission,
but given that it started when the other bits were installed, it's more
likely that one or more are in the way of the shifter, preventing it
from fully engaging third. Too, one must remember that the engine and
transmission move on torque reaction when throttle changes are made, and
when you let off on the throttle to slow, or stop accelerating, the
engine and transmission move some--at that point, something, carpet,
tunnel, etc., may be nudging the lever just enough for it to lose
engagement. Try removing the parts you later installed, one by one, and
try to duplicate the problem each time. That should provide you with the
answer.
If the car continues to exhibit the problem after dash support, carpet
and tunnel are removed, it's likely that the problem was developing
before you installed those pieces, and simply appeared coincidentally at
the same time. But, my first guess is that the tunnel or dash support is
preventing full engagement of third.
Cheers, -Michael D. Porter
----------\\\\\//////------
Hi Michael!
I do beleive [I hope] that this is the answer, because I forgot
to mention that in the proccess of installing the Center Dash Support of
my TR4/A, I had to use a jack to "spread" the opening [between floor &
bottom of dash] in order to get that unit in. So I think there is
pressuer on the top transmission slector unit. Following along this line
of thinking, then do you have any suggestions? -Cosmo Kramer
-----------------------------
Subject: Transmission woes-Poping out of 3rd gear
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 18:09:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: erl@unix.mail.virginia.edu
To: J&E <ebk@buffnet.net>
Question:
Are you sure that your new tunnel cover (which I assume to be one of the
ones you get, made of "space-age plastic") does not press on the shift
lever? You need to carefully check the shiftboot hole is properly
aligned .
Remove the shift boot, and examine how well centered in the cover hole,
that the shift lever holder (that part of the shift linkage into which
the lever goes) is properly centered , and in no way does the shift
lever ever come close to the opening.
> As I recalled when I did the rebuild of tranny;
> > 1: Worn "dog teeth" on the gear. - I didn't recall any where on the teeth &
>I thought > > that I had another person check the parts before I reinstalled
>them. BUT I & the
> > other person could have been Wrong!
>
You need to examine them to see if the sides of the teeth, especially on
the side that takes the thrust under acceloration, is worn as a sort of
bevel. This can be done without dissembling the trans. Just remove the
top of the box.
>
> > 2: Weak springs in the detent balls in the synchro hubs and/or selector
>shaft.
> -They seem to have meet the spects But I'm woundering if I restalled the
>correct
> "distance spacer peice" in. Which I can check out when I pull the engine &
>tranny.
>
Did you use a scales? This is checked by placing the outer synchro ring
(where the fork rides) onto the inner synchro hub. I did mine by
placing the assembled hub on a bathroom scale, with the outer ring
supported, then pressed on the inner hub, and observing the scale
reading as it released. This is pretty accurate.
>
> > 3: Worn bronze shift fork (rides in the synchro hub.) - How would one check
>this?
>
Simply examine the forks when you remove the shift linkage. Look at the
tips at the points where they ride in the outer synchro rings. The wear
patterns are obvious, and if they are cut into the bronze more than
about 10-15 thousandths, then they may need replacing. -James A.
Ruffner
-------------------------------
I want to thank all the people that did respond to my "spin-off"
question, & I will be taking all advice given [wether posted or not
posted here] into account when I start to tackel the other little qurks
dealing with the OD & engine rebuild.
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