Richard,
That is a problem with a steel bleed screw and aluminum body. You will have to
get an "easy out" and some heat on that cylinder. Since there is a rubber seal
in the cylinder, remove it. Just remove the shoes and the rubber cover from the
cylinder and the piston should pop out. Dont use the break pedal or the cylinder
will "FLY" out. just pull it out with some pliers. Heat the cylinder slowly with
a propane torch and carefully try to ease the broken screw out. You may have to
use some brake fluid on the threads. Dont use any oil based stuff like wd-40 or
any other anti seize stuff. may pollute your brake fluid! Dont apply too much
torque on the easy out and use the largest easy out you can. If you have to
drill out the screw, it may be better to remove the cylinder from your brake
line. You wouldn't want to get any metal fillings in the brake system. If all
else fails buy a new cylinder.
Once you get a new bleed screw in, use some of that red girling grease on the
threads or brake fluid to insure you never run into this problem again.
Good luck,
Bob Labuz
1958 TR3A
1974 T140V
Richard White wrote:
> Lister,
>
> Two weeks ago I found enough nerve to try starting my B after about
> seven year "rest". I have the engine running, no real problems
> just a stuck float and a couple of carb gaskets. Today I tried to
> bleed the brakes and now I need some advice.
>
> Both rear bleeder nipples were stuck. The DCO, me, proceeded to break one of
> them. It is broken even with the wheel cylinder.
>
> How do I fix the broken one? Do I need to just replace the wheel
> cylinder?
>
> How do I get the other one out with out breaking it.
>
> Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
> '63 TR3B TCF587L
> That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
|