Don't mess around. Fix it correctly. Throttle rod can hit starter and
make for serious short....(one of my "T" shirts) Rubber band or "O" ring
retainer will get you by till the part comes in.
T.R.
Randall wrote:
>
> Geo :
>
> I've definitely "been there, done that, got the T-shirt" <g>
>
> The peg unscrews from the bell crank, and is actually considered to be
> part of the rod assembly. You can either buy an entire rod assy (Moss
> P/N 371-410 $14.95) or just the end (Moss P/N 676-045 $4.95). I don't
> know of a source for the bell crank, but it wouldn't come with the pegs
> anyway.
>
> First, make sure your throttle linkage is adjusted so that the pedal
> hits the stop on the firewall just as the front carb hits it's stop.
> The idea is to not have any extra force transmitted through the linkage
> at WOT.
>
> As a workaround, you can try putting a flat washer under the peg, so
> that the flat spot is turned. Also, make sure the plug in the rod end
> is screwed down as tight as possible without binding. It's probably
> best to find the correct setting with the other end of the rod loose (so
> you can turn it to test for binding), then return to that setting with
> the rod installed. Don't forget the cotter pin (I use a piece of safety
> wire).
>
> And now, of course, now you'll always remember to put a drop of oil in
> each of the 4 rod ends, every time you change oil, right ? (not to
> mention the rear generator bearing, 4 places where the throttle shafts
> enter the carbs and the top of the distributor shaft.)
>
> Randall
> 59 TR3A
> Lakewood, CA
>
> Geo Hahn wrote:
> >
> > My throttle linkage pops apart when I fully depress the accelerator. It
> > separates at the front end of the long link rod that runs parallel to
> > the carbs. I think the fault lies with the peg on bell crank lever that
> > engages the socket at the front end of the long link rod -- I suspect
> > that the ball on the end of that peg is supposed to be round... mine
> > looks a bit flattened.
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