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[Fwd: Restoration Progress/Alternator Wiring/Wiper MTR, Rear Body Protec

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [Fwd: Restoration Progress/Alternator Wiring/Wiper MTR, Rear Body Protection]boundary="------------34864B207AD9488D1510927C"
From: "Sherman D. Taffel" <staffel@home.com>
Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 22:49:32 -0500
Organization: @Home Network
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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"Sherman D. Taffel" wrote:
> 
> Hello Listers
> 
> MAde great progress Saturday on the TR4, got the minilite wheels on
> after detailing (repainting) the chassis,  shocks and links in the rear
> wheel wells from 'body over spray'. Installed the new wiring harness and
> was looking at the wires to the Generator and the VTR FAQ @ alternator
> conversion.
> 
> In this harness (From Moss) the Big Wire is Br/Yellow, and the field
> wire (small one) is Br/green (Same as my original harness). The FAQ says
> to connect the Br/ Green  to the Battery post on the alternator and the
> Br/yellow to the ignition. The Standard GM wiring diagrams always show
> the field wire (white) feeding from the ignition, through the charge
> warning light, and the bigger lead (Red) on connector (the power to the
> field) to feed from the Battery connection-Also the output terminal at
> the alternator, or solenoid. Common sense says the power/load carrying
> wire is always the larger wire. So I wanted to pass this on.
> 
> A difference on the Moss harness (at least from my original harness and
> the Autobooks Manual by Kenneth Ball, I've had since the '70's, is the
> wire from the Ignition switch post 4 to the fuse box is shown in the
> book as L/G,. and on the new harness it is GR Green with a red tracer.
> 
> Also, originally the White/tracer Red wire (ignition to Solenoid, and
> the Brown (Solenoid to the individual Horn Fuse ran in the main harness.
> On this one it is pigtailed off under the dash-at first I thought they
> messed up and put the wires on the 'wrong side ' of the firewall, and
> then I discovered it's a short cut through the firewall to the solenoid
> (although about 1" longer would have helped not exacerbate the tension
> on the important solenoid switch wire, (yes I changed the position of
> the spade on the solenoid and the terminal closer to the firewall
> (opposite original), so I pass this along.
> 
> Finally, the green/Blue wire paired with the white wire that goes to the
> coil, and the last braided leads of the front main harness is long
> enough to reach the coil with original routing to the left inner wheel
> well tab (where an original horn was), but not the temp sender. I'm
> thinking of rerouting along the front valence support with safety ties.
> Other than these the harness is beautifully done and the connectors and
> clear flexible insulation very very nice.
> 
> Today I rebuilt the wiper motor-a job hj'in the wings' (actually in
> three different hangers for three years. Originally, the little T pieces
> with the hole in them for the brushes spring were shot-the original
> bakelite just couldn't make it into the next 35 years. I had a fellow
> pilot friend of mine who works at Black and Decker use the CAD computer
> to make me new ones, along with the top 'brush holder'.  These work
> great. My only problem is the main drive gear or ring gear is broken
> where the 'park switch' mounts, so I got the motor working beautifully,
> but it has no park-no really a big deal on this one speed motor. So if
> anyone has an extra 'main drive wheel'---- And I have one extra pair of
> T clips and brush holder if someone is desperate and can't make Soda
> bottle plastic work-like I did by default for every season during the
> previous decade (THESE PARTS ARE NOT AVAILABLE FROM ANY SOURCE I
> KNOW,_MNNN TRF PROJECT?
> 
> Finally-I've have been restoring the car with a Vintage Rally motief,
> i.e. extra road/fog lamps, clean valences, i.e. no bumpers,I really
> really like the 'clean look, like the TRS competition car modeled after
> the 'Zoom' Concept.   However, as I get close to the end here, (Project
> has been weekly since 6/98, I'm getting nervous about a rear end /
> parking lot 'tap', and so I'm exploring options to the original Bumper
> and overiders. Has anyone ever investigated using TR-3 Vertical Rear
> Bumper Bars, or ever seen a thin single or double 'Nerf' Bumper Bar that
> could add some protection, but not detract from the 'Clean Look ' (Like
> the TR-3's) of the TR-4 w/o the Rear Bumper!
> 
> Sherman D. Taffel
> '65 TR4 CT40054L (saved from oblivion)
> (Wiper motor says 10/64)
> 
> also STaffel@bcps.k12.md.us
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