Jeff McNeal wrote:
> Brian,
>
> I agree with you here. What's factory on a TR may not be the same as what's
> factory spec on a Spitfire -- and the factory spec could have changed at any
> time. My Bentley factory workshop manual for the Herald, Vitesse and
> Spitfire clearly shows a mounted hub adapter with single beveled nuts in
> place. Based on this evidence, I believe that I'll be safe with the adapter
> nuts from Spitbits, however, I also believe that double beveled nuts would
> have been fine as long as they were the correct thread diameter and pitch.
> As a full set was unavailable from any of the usual sources I frequent, I
> ordered the set from Nigel this afternoon.
>
> I'm taking the opportunity while I have the car on jack stands (I replaced
> the ruined wheel studs today), to change the oil and filter, check the
> transmission and rear end oil and replace the leaking oil pan seal.
>
> My new door panels and upholstery kit including seat foams arrived today.
> If anyone can advise me on the difficulty or ease of doing the seats myself,
> please chime in. I have no reservations about letting a professional
> upholsterer do the seats if they can do a better job than I can -- though I
> sure don't mind giving it a try!
>
> Best wishes,
>
> Jeff in San Diego
> '67 RHD Spitfire Mk3 aka "Mrs. Jones"
> http://www.ohms.com/spitfire/spitfire.shtml
Jeff,
Agreed. I've found the same picture in two of my books showing the single
bevel nut
on the Spit. The reason for the double bevel on the big TR's is to gain
additonal
clearance at the back of the wire wheel center. by beveling the nut, a good
number of
threads could still be used, but that extra 1/8" or so chamfer would give
additional
clearance at the outside of the wheel center. The Spit wheels may clear just
fine due
to the smaller bolt circle and it may not be an issue on that model. If there
is any
doubt, here's an easy way to check:
After fitting up the hub adaptor, ball up a few pieces of modeling clay and
press them
onto the tops of the nuts. Rub the edge of the back of the wheel center with a
little
oil to prevent the clay from sticking to the wheel. Install the wheel and
tighten the
knockoff completely then remove it again. Inspect the clay to see if it has
smooshed
out to the point where the edge of the nut would be contacting the back of the
wheel.
If it has, then you do need the double bevel. If there is still a good bit of
clay on
top of the nut at the outer edge, then you'll be fine to go as is with the nuts
supplied from Nigel.
Good luck!
Regards,
Brian Schlorff '61 TR-4 '64 TR-4 '72 TR-6 '79 Spit
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