Hi,
Thought I'd chime in on this one. In no particular order...
1. new blocks. Great idea if your block is hosed - otherwise, you're better
off with a "seasoned" block. All the hot-rodding your xxxx motor books
indicate this.
2. align boring for cam bearings. If you go to a big lift cam, you really
should do this. Figure $200 or so... more in the N.E., for some reason.
Note: this job is critical - make sure it's done right. In other words, pay
more money and make sure the machinist has done the job before. Otherwise -
see number 1. ;-)
3. Boring the cylinders: make sure the shop has a jig for this job. Done
properly, a jig is bolted onto the block and torqued down prior to
machining. If you skip this step - you might wind up with one or two holes
slightly out of round. Not a bid deal, but you won't get optimal power, for
sure. Figure $20 to $30 per "hole" for a boring.
4. decking the block is not totally necessary, but make sure the block is
square and flat where it mates the cyl. head. If you have the later style
block, you might have to also do some work for the little depressions for
the head gasket - unless you want to use the early style head gasket or a
copper head gasket...
5. personal note - it will be a sad day when TRF sells the last TR6
cylinder block, as it will really be the end of an era. It'll also be the
start of a new era, but it just won't be the same with these cars when
there's no new units of these types of components.
regards,
rml
=====================================================================
Bob Lang | TR 6 Guy | Editor: New England Triumphs
Phone: | 617-253-7438 (days)| 781-438-2568 (eves)
Occupation: | ComputerZ | TR fixer-Upper
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