The folks on this list must be psychic!
> Scions-
> Being faced with some major surgery on my TR6 (97,000 mi.), I would
> like to take advantage of off -price winter sales. A motor rebuild
> (lower end) and clutch replacement are on the docket as soon as the
> garage is warm enough this spring. I do not want to open "Pandora's Box"
> here but what is the preferred clutch brand? Luk, Borg & Beck or TRF's
> magic clutch?
In may my throwout bearing died a horrible death upon engaging at a stop
sign... so that weekend I replaced the clutch components with a Borg & Beck
three piece kit (housing, disc and and throwout bearing). Now due to a
recent ring gear issue, I took a part everything once again today (I'm
getting good at this had the gearbox out in two hours and thirty minutes).
I figure this is a good time to look at how my clutch components are
wearing... my throwout bearing sounds like it is going ot die again, and I
had packed it with lithium grease prior to installation in May. Where the
throwout bearing contacts the housing on the 'fingers', there is some wear
also... the disc seems to have lots of life left in it.
I am going to replace the throwout bearing again while everything is out.
(I don't feel like doing this again!) I am not too concerned with the
slight wear on the fingers. As soon as I get the flywheel off, and it is
not coming off (moral support and advise needed here!), I will have the
machine shop repress my ring gear on and shrink it again... or whatever they
do so it is in the original position. At the same time I'll have it
resurfaced. I have a new pilot / spigot bushing, which I think is a
sensible item to renew too.
When I did the clutch back in May I had all the items necessary to replace
the front gearbox oil seal and gasket. However, upon removal it wasn't
leaking and I decided against fixing something that wasn't broken.
I did not drain my gearbox oil in May, I will do it now and fill up with
fresh gear oil. Sure beats doing it while the gearbox is in the car. If
the U-Joint on your drive shaft (where it meets the gearbox) has a
grease-nipple, this is also a good time to get it from above.
Other sensible 'upgrades' IMHO are the plastic gearbox cover and new seals.
The plastic cover does not absorb water, and therefore your are doing
something that helps prevent rust. The handbrake tunnel cover, I also am
replacing with a fibreglass one.
If you really want to cure that shipwrights disease, rebuild/replace your
slave cylinder, new clevis pin and a new pushrod, as well as a new clutch
hose.
Okay, that is my experience thus far... I'm really tired and still greasy,
so now I will go clean all of my tools and then my laptop.
Cheers!
--
Kai M. Radicke -- kradick1@ic3.ithaca.edu
'74 Triumph TR6 -- http://www.pil.net/~felix/
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