On Wed, 29 Dec 1999, David Lee wrote:
> Thanks to everyone that filled me in on the connections for the generator.
> I have a new question regarding the matter.
> The generator seems to be working fine but when I drive my ammeter likes to
> wind up to 30 amps at around 3000 rpm.
Sounds like your generator is not charging until there is sufficient
bootstrap current.
Geneators work by moving a magnet (armature) through another magnetic
field (stator), inducing a current in the windings. You need to have
current going through the stator before it acts like a magnet.
("Electromagnet"- remember the science project where you wrap the nail
with wire and pick up iron filings? Think big. :-))
When the ignition key is in the Run position, 12 volts is applied to the
generator windings. With the motor off, the charging light (the red one)
should glow. It should go out when the generator starts generating, and
there is 12V on both sides of the bulb.
In short, check the Little Red Light. If the bulb is burned out or a wire
is off, then your generator will not receive the proper 12 volts (open
circuit!) to provide magnetic fields to all the whirling hunks of copper
wire. It will therefore need much more 'incentive' to start charging-
like over-revving the engine...
> This is a brand new voltage regulator I had put in about two weeks ago for
> the same reason. Does anyone have an idea of why this is happening? Im
> sure the ammeter isnt broken.
If it's the old-stle coil-&-breaker point regulator, it might need to be
gapped / filed / calibrated. (I don't know how, sorry...) Something
tells me that if it's not regulating "the right way", it will kick in too
"late" and shut off too "early", but that's just musings... I don't
exactly know how the regulator works, I've never had one. (DPO installed
Chevy alternator in my TR4, one of the few *good* things done)
-Malcolm
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