>I know that there has been some discussion in here on how to do this,
>but I can't remember the specifics. Now I'm faced with putting my TR250
>on jacks to re-bush, re-spring, etc.
I claim to be fairly good at it. As proof I offer the fact that my TR3
was on jack stands during the '89 Loma Prieta earthquake and it stayed up
on the stands. I live about 1 mile for the surface of the epicenter.
There are two basic kinds of jack stands. One kind has a vertical rod
with a flat 'Y' at the top that adjusts upward from a base. This is
meant to support a frame rail or axle.
The other is basically a rectangular box, with or without a ramp, with or
without a raising centre post. This type is designed to support a wheel
when you are doing work that does not require wheel removal. This type
is a LOT more stable than the narrower adjustable rod jack stand and
should be the type of preference any time you need to work under a car
and do not need to remove a wheel from that corner. I have both kinds
and use the wider, stronger, more stable box type any time I can.
Each year people die when their car falls on top of them. I doubt that
suffocating with the weight of the car on your chest is all that pleasant
of a way to go. So spend the extra money to purchase the best jack stands
that you can get. Get a set of the adjustable rod type and at least two
of the box type that supports wheels. Two full sets would be best.
Jack stands will break/bend if you overload them. If you are getting the
adjustable rod type get the biggest one (widest base) that will fit under
your car at your jacked up working height. The lower the adjustable rod
is the more stable the jack stand is. An adjustable rod type at it's
fullest extension can be fairly unstable.
Your jack stand resting surface is critical. Flat level cement is best.
Asphalt looks stable but is not. A jack stand will sink into the
asphalt, esp on a warm day. If you are working on any surface other than
flat cement you need to add a stable "floor" between the jack stand and
the ground/asphalt/blocks/bricks/whatever. I suggest wood at least 1/2
inch thick that reaches at least six inches in any horz direction from
the outside base edges of the jack stand.
If you are on a grade you will need to tie the uphill end of the car to a
stationary tie point. I had my TR3 on a few degree slope. I sank a 17
inch iron water pipe with a 'T' at the top into the soil as a tie point.
I used a comealong to connect the car frame to the tie point and to put a
slight tension of the wire.
If you are in an earth quake area, orient the car lengthwise to the
normal direction your nearest fault moves then tie it at each end to tie
points. In my case the car was on a slight slope, pointed in the
direction of movement. Gravity kept it from falling over uphill and the
tie kept it from falling off downhill. I had box style stands under the
rear wheels and the adjustable rod type on the front with the front
wheels removed. The car was on dirt with plywood under each stand.
The fireplace in my house literally exploded, the kitchen sink fell
through the counter. The refrigerator and stove walked out into the
middle of the kitchen and were almost in contact. I had to replane the
house doors to get them to close into their sills. We had a great deal
of damage from a 7+ force earthquake almost directly under us.....but the
TR3 remained up on the jack stands. If I were under it at the time of
the quake, I would have very much appreciated it.
If you live in an area with strong afternoon wind gusts, point the car
nose or tail into the wind and anchor the upwind end.
Jacking the car up onto the stands:
Different cars have different constructions. Check your user manual for
recommendations. Usually the frame or the differential are good lift
points.
Jacking a car onto jack stands done one end at a time. This provides the
least lateral force when jacking up the second half.
The adjustable rod type of jack stands should be set under a main frame
section or a solid axle as close to the corner as possible. Stay away
from sections that are not normally horizontal to the ground when the car
is on it's wheels.
Any time you jack a corner you should block the opposite corner wheel.
Same when you jack up one end. Jack up one end, set the stands and any
boards. Do the same to the other end. THEN go back to the first end &
jack it back up again, verify stand placement, then lower the jack. When
you jack up the second end you very frequently put a lateral force on the
first set of stands. So the first stands may be cocked a little and
unstable. Resetting the first pair eliminates any instability from
lifting the second end.
Once the car is on the stands give it a firm shake from a side and from
an end before going under it. If you have the car up on multiple days,
do it every day you crawl under it. If the car does not feel stable
reset the stands. Check the stands for damage or bending, check the
surface under the stands.
When you are under a car and trying to get something off or on, do not do
a lot of hard pulling or pushing in any direction other than up or down.
I read a story once about a guy who was replacing his exhaust system
under jack stands. He was having a hard time getting pipe sections to
separate & pulled so hard he knocked the car off the stands onto him.
All this takes a little extra time & expense. But there is only one you
and you have to decide how important seeing the next morning is to you.
If you are not willing to go through the effort and own a nice condition
1800 or 2000 Triumph Roadster, please will it to me before you go under
your car?
Best of luck & stay safe
TeriAnn
http://www.overlander.net
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