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Was improvement list, now shipwrights disease!

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Was improvement list, now shipwrights disease!
From: GuyotLeonF@aol.com
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 14:48:50 EST
On Sat, 27 Nov 1999 19:16:43 
"Adrian Dix-Dyer" <dixie4@wales.freeserve.co.uk>
Wrote: Improvement list

With regard to Ken's idea of a list of improvements without thought of
keeping originality here is my two pennyworth for a TR4A. (also not taking
into account availability of parts for this model)

1  Fit a brake servo and rear disc brakes (Dolomite Sprint)
2  Junk the rear shocks and fit Bilstein gas filled telescopic shocks all 
round.
3  Fit anti-roll bars front and rear.
4  Fit anti tramp bars and panhard rod to rear live axle.
5  Fit rollover bar
6  Fit high speed low profile tyres and mag alloy wheels
7  Fit rally bucket seats and four point seat belts.
8  Throw out the tractor engine and fit at least a 300bhp Rover/Buick V8
engine and 5 speed gearbox.
9  Fit high power sound system to drown out the rattles and noise
10 Fit a power soft top (it rains a lot in UK)

I agree with about all of the above:

But perhaps the order of enhancements should be different? (I prefer that 
word to modification, which has more than a hint of that dirty word 
'customised' about it, although 'improvements' is good.) 

When you start with a 'normal' (ha - standard) - Triumph Motor Car, that has 
previously been with DP owners who have kept it 100% standard, you should 
consider removing the Crossply tyres and replacing them with Radials, less 
excitement true, but lots more grip, and most probably better at displacing 
water and thus with shorter stopping distances...(On Triumphs, I like 
Goodyears, Pirelli or Avons but your opinion may differ). 

Next up are the wheels, It really depends on what you want to do with your 
car, but most folk want a 'fast road car', and remember that the road can be 
every bit as demanding as the racetrack, due to longer distances being driven 
at fairly high speeds, and more likely than not, poor road surfaces, in one 
of the two seasons: (winter and construction!), I usually recommend going up 
at least one inch in width for a road car. and maybe two for a race car.

If you have room under your wheelarches, you might like to go for an extra 
inch in diameter, but that will of course also increase the cost of your 
tyres! (Looks cool though!)
If it's show you are after, more than go, by all means fit wires., but if you 
want good road wheels, then the answer is always alloys, because you can get 
them balanced and they don't flex and bend like wires.
(I have tried many types of wheels on my Triumphs, and nowadays favour Alloy 
wheels for everyday use, but if you want to go rough road rallying, please 
use steels!)
I have seen what happens to alloys when they go sideways until they hit an 
obstruction!!! The Triumph driver is lucky to be alive!

The original type of dampers are probably worn and in need of replacement or 
rebuild. Get rid of those lever arms, they are difficult and expensive to get 
rebuilt, and fit new good quality telescopics all round, I prefer Konis 
having had bad experiences with Spax in the past.    

So, now it should have enough grip to stay on the road, and a decent 
footprint.

As the springs on your car are probably rather limp after many years of 
holding up all that dead weight, you might consider changing those next...
Slightly shorter front springs give the car a really mean and purposeful 
look, but don't go too short, or mother earth will make her presence felt, 
usually by ripping off your entire exhaust system at the most inopportune 
moment.

The rear spring, probably causes the back of the car to lean one way or the 
other,
usually to the left, for some reason....So a new one of those can reap rewards
If you have a Triumph with a transverse rear leaf spring bolted to the top of 
the differential, then change it immediately for a 'swing spring' conversion 
from John Kipping in Coventry, England. A great investment as it transforms 
the cars handling characteristics (I'm being kind). 
If you like playing around with suspension settings and stuff, you can always 
junk that heavy old cart spring and fit a coil-over rear damper conversion.

I must also recommend that all the original rubber suspension bushes on the 
car are being replaced with Urethane 'Superflex' bushes, which last much 
longer and are unaffected by oil.
I do mean ALL the bushes BTW, including those on the differential and 
steering rack.
(Steering Rack bushes may also be replaced with Aluminium, to give the 
ultimate in positive steering...BTW, whilst you are there, how is that 
steering rack?
Need a rebuild does it? When do you suppose it was last oiled anyway? 
Oh really, you didn't know it needed oiling? hmmm. (just like the DPO)

Braking systems on these cars were perfectly adequate when the cars, and 
their braking systems were new...but not nowadays...on roads populated with 
mindless morons driving 'hot hatches' with all round disc brakes which they 
will insist on driving right up to, and often beyond the limits of the cars, 
and their own abilities...

You will probably find that much of your cars braking system is well and 
truly 'knackered' If the pipes are over 15 years old...replace them right 
now, the best material is kunifer (Cupro-Nickle Alloy), much better than 
copper. Unions should be in Brass and hoses stainless steel braided. Brake 
Pads are available now in Kevlar, which are excellent. If you have a Triumph 
with small callipers, discs and drums, and there is a later or more powerful 
model available, then simply upgrade to those.
Or if you have lots of money, then go for four-piston callipers and 
ventilated discs.
(not cross-drilled, but properly ventilated discs)
If you wish to retain original solid discs, make sure they are new, as old 
ones can get very thin...you won't believe some of the things I have seen on 
cars being driven.
A remote vacuum Servo is a good idea, especially if you have weak legs, but 
it won't make your brakes any better and is no substitute for really good 
brakes.
Oh yes, and don't forget to rebuild or replace that master cylinder! 
If the old seals blow...well goodbye cruel world!

For a road car Silicon Fluid is perfectly OK, just as long as you replace all 
the rubber in the system before using it.
I have found that it can cause problems due to differential swelling of the 
rubber seals in the servo unit if normal fluid is replaced with silicon fluif 
without changing all the rubbers first. (after I changed back, there were no 
further problems)

A race car, however, is a very different story! Silicon Fluid is not 
recommended for them. 

OK, now you've got grip, suspension, handling and stopping power.  
And I haven't even mentioned the engine or transmission, ancillaries etc 
etc... 
You want more?
I better not use any more bandwidth on this message...
Wait for the next one...

Léon F Guyot

Triumph Sports Six Club 
International Liaison Secretary
1963 Triumph Vitesse 2-Litre Convertible 

nb. Disclaimer: All of the above are only my personal opinions, based on my 
personal experiences, and I accept no responsibility whatsoever, from anyone 
if they follow them and they don't work, or otherwise cause problems of any 
kind.

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