Message text written by INTERNET:Crazeecooter@aol.com
>Listers...
>
>I am at the point of my frame off when I am thinking about what to do with
my
>suspension...
>
>1) I was wondering what those of you who put in the koni conversion kit
>thought of it? How tighter is the ride....does it make it more or less
>comfortable when you hit a bump in the road? Does it drastically change
the
>roll? Most importantly...is it difficult to install?
I assume that we are talking about a TR6 here (you didn't state). Comfort
is a subjective evaluation. The Koni's are stiffer but with the original
shocks and soft springs the bottoming out is very disconcerting (at least
to me). The Koni's are stiffer than the heavy duty levers from Apple
Hydraulics. Even at the softest setting. Shocks will not effect roll.
Tube conversion kits come in three varieties. 1) Brackets that mount to
the inner wheel well. STAY AWAY from this type of kit. All the stresses
are transmitted to the body which was NOT designed to withstand it. 2)
Brackets the transfer the forces to the original shock mount. There are
two types of these: one kit has three brackets that mount in the wheel
well, trunk and underneath requiring 16 holes in the coachwork. The other
type eliminates the coachwork modifications by being designed to tuck
inside the wheel well. 3) The Coil-over shock design that I have seen one
of and has been discussed on the list. I am sure others will happily
provide details.
>2) If I kept the original shocks in the rear....are they adjustable...at
all?
> How will they react to a heavy duty spring (do the rally grade springs
from
>TRF qualify as this?...I do want heavy springs to keep my car from
sagging)
The original shocks can be adjusted in two ways: valving (see comment about
heavy duty shocks from Apple Hydraulics above) and changing the hydraulic
fluif to a heavier or lighter fluif. (sorry Joe). I can not address the
spring issue as I have no experience but one of the compromises S-T made
during design is to soften the rear springs. Not having the ability to
increase wheel travel the resulting design is a bit prone to hitting the
suspension limits whilst traversing severe road features. Stiffer springs
may make the ride a bit stiffer but the reductions of bottoming out might
make for a better overall driving experience. This is, of course, a matter
of personal prefference.
The first thing to check, if you have a sag problem, are the bushings. If
the bushings are bad replacing the springs is the wrong approach. I used
Polyurethane busings and advise you to do the same IF you are changing
them. Grease them liberally or they will squeak. Use lithium or silicone
grease. If the sagging is from spring deformation then I would try
slightly stiffer springs but not full race springs if you plan to drive on
the road.
Just my opinion
Dave Massey
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