John :
I just did something similar a few months ago, except I was disassembling
slaves removed from parts cars some 25 years ago <g>
NOTE : All of these procedures are somewhat dangerous. Wear eye protection,
make sure no one is within 10 feet of you, and preferably rig something to
catch the piston when it does come loose. Try not to have your face in-line
with the end of the cylinder at any time.
1. Try soaking in penetrating oil (Kroil or PB Blaster seem to work about
equally well for me). Apply the oil both inside (through the ports) and out,
let sit for a few days. Then apply air pressure again. I've had good luck
with this before, but it didn't work this time.
2. Hold the slave in a vise, and rap on the piston with a punch and hammer
(air pressure applied). If it will move at all, keep working it until it
comes loose. I didn't have any luck with this.
3. Heat the slave with a propane torch, with air pressure applied. This
worked for me, 1 out of 3.
4. Fill the inside of the slave with penetrating oil, through the ports.
Install bleed valves into both ports, so the cylinder is sealed. Hold the
slave in a vise (by one ear), with the opening aimed where the high energy
projectile won't do any harm. Now heat the bottom of the slave (where the
piston is stuck) with a torch. This worked great for me, the first piston
just kind of hopped out onto the bench. The second piston however, left a
dent in the ceiling ! <g>
DISCLAIMER : Step 4 above has the potential to turn into a grenade. It
seems unlikely to me, but use it strictly at your own risk.
IMO the crystalline stuff is hardened Girling brake grease.
BTW, don't forget to remove the retaining clip at the end of the bore. One
of mine was rusted so bad that the end of the clip had fallen off, but the
clip itself was still in place.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Runge
> Sent: Friday, October 22, 1999 8:53 AM
>
> The big question is: How do I get the piston out? I have tried with
> compressed air.
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