Jim,
That lister may have been me with the loose shock. One helpful
point. I had this happen to me once before, but I picked it up before I
noticed any clunk. I retrofitted a longer bolt so I could add a jam nut
on the other side of the frame where the bolt protrudes.
As for the oil, you might be able to fill with more fluid on the car.
There is a small
hex head bolt on the top of the shock. It might even have GSF stamped on
it.
Unbolt that stubby bolt and fill with new shock oil. I did not have and
Girling Shock Fluid, so I drained all the old fluid out of the BIG bolt on
the bottom with
the shock off the car, then refilled with 30wt Harley Davidson fork oil. I
was told this
would be better than straight 30wt engine oil because of the detergents in
engine oil
which might be a problem for the rubber seals in the shock.
To stiffen the shock, you might consider Vaigra...... oops, I meant 40wt
fork oil.....
My website has a little blurb on revalving shocks and stuff....
-Tony
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/arhodes
Message text written by INTERNET:triumphs-owner@autox.team.net
>From: "Jim Altman" <jaltman@altlaw.com>
Subject: Nasty rear clunk and rear TR6 shock question
I had a nasty clunking sound from the right rear. I had examined the diff
mounts, the exhaust, this, that, the other thing. Couldn't find anything
loose. Some fluif on the frame near the shock.
Harkening back into long term memory I remembered someone else on the list
being befuddled by rear clunk and found a shock bolt not snug. Thank you
list! Rear bolt was loose. Amazing how much clunk generated by that lil
bit
of movement.
Now the question, seeing the fluif on the frame I noted that a couple of
the
top screws were somewhat loose. I didn't fully remove the shock, so
couldn't tighten them all, but need to go get some fluif to fill them.
Given the angle they sit at, am I correct in assuming that they can not be
filled in situ and must be removed from the car? I could use a stubby
screwdriver to get all the screws. Also, is the hydraulic fluif in the
likely to be AutoZone hydraulic fluif and must I buy what the big 3 sell?
Is
there a problem with mixing possibly disparate fluifs?
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