Craig
> I have both the GT6. and TR6. backplate. I can get the TR6.
>flywheel, starter, and clutch if necessary.
O.K. The starter isn't required (your GT6 one will work just as well),
everything else you need (also a spigot bush as the GT6 and TR6 units are
different)
>I have the TR6. rear mount
>which might be a little easier to deal with. I would not have to weld to
>the trans housing, just make a longer mounting plate.
I think you'll find it isn't as easy as that. The mounting blocks have to
be welded on right forward on the gearbox tail housing to allow the mount
to go in without fouling the chassis (have a look the chassis tapers in
very sharply at the back of the gearbox).
>I would love to see how you did it. What were the modifications to the
>gear lever and the clutch mounting plate?
Gearlever is shorter and bent backwards, acheived by cutting a section out
just at the top of the bend and rewelding. Really a finishing job - the car
can be driven as is you'll just need to reach a bit for the lever. The
other thing is that the lever is much easier to get out than in a GT6 or
spitfire box!
The clutch slave mounting plate has to be cut in half along the line of the
bell housing, 'flipped', and welded back together (you could make a custom
one but this works, note that the two parts are not welded back togther
flat they are offset in both planes to make the slave cylinder line up -
this is best done with box and motor on the floor before you put them in
the car) to move the slave cylinder in toward the centreline of the car (to
avoid the chassis).
The Clutch actuating lever on the bellhousing cross shaft has to be bent
into an 'S' shape. First bend is in toward the centreline of the car so
that it just clears the bottom of the casting on the bellhousing (have a
look at the box and you'll see what I mean), then the end is bent done in
the middle of the inner most hole to make the lever vertical again (and
miss the bellhousing), the hole will need welding up after wards to regain
strength . The clutch slave rod is then attached to the end hole (don't
have to worry about throw as the lever is now much shorter than originally.
You can use the GT6 master cylinder.
>Did you have the GT6. drive
>shaft shortened or will something else work? The TR. trans is about 8
>inches longer than the GT6. trans. I guess it would be too easy if the
>TR6. drive shaft was the right length.
I used a shortened Sedan tailshaft. The GT6 tailshaft uses the same flange
bolt pattern as the TR6 so you can use it, but it will have to be shortened
to something like 815mm (don't quote that it's from memory!!!!) at midpoint
of the spline travel. I don't beleive that the TR6 tailshaft will fit
(it'll be too long as well).
Any other questions, feel free to ask
Bill Birney
Melbourne, Australia
'67 Spitfire MkII - Under resto
'70 GT6+ (RHD)
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