Don :
Sorry, but it still sounds to me like a defective regulator (inside the
alternator). There are (at least) two transistors inside the regulator,
and in your case it sounds like the one that senses that the alternator is
turning, and connects the IGN terminal to 12 volts, is shorted or has very
high leakage. This wouldn't keep the alternator from working, but would
cause the light to stay on and run the battery down when the car is parked.
There is a very small chance that the problem is caused by dirt and/or
conductive crud inside the alternator housing, so it's probably worth
disassembling, cleaning and inspecting it.
If you really want to go to extremes, get a remote control battery
disconnect switch, and run the control knob up under the dash <g>
Randall
On Tuesday, July 06, 1999 7:29 PM, Donald L. Gilbert, Jr.
[SMTP:Webmaster@infinitefx.com] wrote:
>
> Hello again. I have been toying with the ignition light some more and
> here is what has happened.
>
> Unhooked all wires going to the alternator. Lamp goes out.
> Plug connector (with 3 wires) back in, lamp comes on.
>
> Turn key to ON position, lamp goes off.
> Start car, lamp stays off. Voltmeter shows a hair over 12 volts.
> Turn car off.... turn key on... voltmeter shows a hair over 11 volts
> (engine not running)
> Turn key off, ignition lamp comes back on.
>
> Now... the lamp does not stay on solid. It looks as if it gets dim and
> then bright again. Almost like it is trying to go out, but can't.
>
> Please help. I hate unhooking my battery every time.
>
> Don
>
> --
> Donald L. Gilbert, Jr.
> Webmaster, Infinite Effects Web Page Creation
>
> mailto:webmaster@infinitefx.com
> http://www.infinitefx.com for Custom Web Page Design
>
> 1968 Jeep J-3000 Gladiator
> 1987 Shelby Charger
> Ligonier, Pennsylvania
> Currently working in Virginia
>
>
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