Thanks for the detailed advice! Looking forward to phase II. Thanks for the
notes!!!!
Winnie
'72 TR6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Alan Myers
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 1999 6:54 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: POR-15
Listers...
On the current project I am trying out the POR-15 family of products.
Early observations:
1. This is some incredible stuff! (no financial interest, yada)
2. Heed warnings about getting it on your skin.
2a. Buy really good quality gloves! The cheap latex ones tear too
easily.
2b. It really is possible to get some of the paint off skin, sort of, if
you don't mind scrubbing with coarse steel wool or one of those plastic
frying pan scrubbers.
2c. Especially watch out for splatters on your face.
2d. If it stays on steel the way it stays on skin, it's tough stuff.
2e. It quickly soaks thru clothing to the skin beneath.
3. Don't ask me how I know items 2-2e.
4. A little goes a long way: I guess-timated a quart per coat for a TR4
frame, but it's all one solid coat of battleship gray with half that!
(not to worry, will be topcoating with Chassis Coat, semi-gloss black)
5. Nice flow, brushed it on and I challenge you to find a brush stroke!
6. Like any painting project, preparation is 95% of the battle. All
dirt, grease, old paint, etc., must be removed. I sandblasted,
steel-wooled, wire-brushed, sanded & degreased for 3-4 days. (Ever tried
to clean out the "box" in the center of a TR frame that the exhaust pipe
passes thru?) Before coating, prep the metal with Metal Ready (marketing
geniuses!), which seems to be a phosphoric acid solution that leaves
behind a zinc coating, rinse with water & dry thoroughly. Painting took
about 3 hrs with a 1" brush.
7. Nasty odors from all the prep stuff and the paint, so be sure to work
in a well-ventilated space.
8. Plan to throw away used brushes. Cheap bristle seems to work well.
I'd be reluctant to put this paint in an expensive spray gun! If you do
spray, better be sure to trap *all* condensation and water before it
gets to the gun.
9. Use plastic wrap or similar when you reseal the can, so metal is not
in contact with metal. Otherwise, one drop of the paint in the seal will
weld the lid on permanently.
10. Stir the paint, don't shake the can.
11. Pour out the amount of paint you can work with in about 15-20 min.,
into a plastic pan or similar, and reseal the original can to keep from
starting the curing process.
12. Moisture and water cause this paint to cure harder. You'll find this
out particularly in the shower, about the same time you discover how
efficiently POR-15 soaks thru a shirt.
13. Practice explaining "Why yes, in fact I did get this tattoo to match
my car" or "It's camouflage".
I'll keep you informed, but, no, I won't post pictures of my new
tattoos!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
HMS '62 TR4 CT17602L
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MZ
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