Shannon :
For the bolts, check the head for the strength rating. You should find
either radial hash marks (3 marks indicate Grade 5, 5 marks indicate Grade
8) or a molded number like 8.8 (roughly Grade 5) or 12.10 (roughly Grade
8). If they are marked at least Grade 5, go ahead and use them.
For many of the nuts, you will have no choice. All of the Nyloc nuts
should be replaced, as they loose their holding power with age and removal.
Also, most likely your new trunnion is not cross-drilled for cotter pins,
so you will need to use the new Nyloc nuts (or have them drilled for the
cotter pins and castellated nuts). All lock washers should also be
replaced.
Otherwise, you can re-use the old hardware, if you prefer. The TR3
suspension is actually pretty well designed, in terms of not putting a lot
of load on fasteners. I just redid mine, replacing only lock washers,
Nyloc nuts, and obviously damaged bolts. In my case, the bolts for the
upper A frame pivot were pretty well whacked, so I replaced them.
Randall
On Saturday, May 15, 1999 6:22 PM, Shannon Cole [SMTP:shang@sonet.net]
wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> I have a question for the list concerning new hardware(nuts&bolts). I
am
> currently in the midst of my frame off restoration of a 59 TR3. The kit I
> purchased to rebuild the front end along with many other items comes with
> new nuts & bolts. My ?, is this hardware good quality stuff, or would I
be
> better off blasting and painting the old nuts & bolts?
>
> Shannon
> 59 TR3 (all over my shop)
>
>
> ----------
> > From: Alvamike@aol.com
> > To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Brake Bleeding on 66 TR4A
> > Date: Friday, May 14, 1999 8:44 PM
> >
> >
> > I am to the point of getting the brakes to work before I start the
> engine. I
> > thought this might be helpful. Who knows what could happen !!!
> >
> > I have put fluid in the master cyclinder and have gravity bleed the
> brakes
> > starting at the right rear, then left rear, right front and then left
> front,
> > 5 times. I am bleeding into a clear jar of new fluid. I see air
bubbles
>
> > coming out and have bleed to where there are on a few bubbles
> occassionally
> > coming out. I thought I would be able to WIFE ASSIST BLEED but I still
> have
> > no pedal AT ALL. When I push down the fluid rises in the resevoir but
> > nothing comes out of an open bleeder. Any suggestions? The master
> > cyclinder is rebuilt, but looked and acted great on the bench. Should
I
> get
> > a pressure bleeder or what?
> >
> > Wanting to start her up in Morgantown
> > Mike
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