There is no magic in wiring looms, all that is required is common sense
patience and the ability not to panic when things do not go quite as you
expect.
I have never changed the loom in a TR6 but have done so in a TR4 and designed
and made my own loom for a Spitfire.
My suggestion is to buy a new loom, compare it as far as possible with the
old loom for
colours on connections, put it in the car and connect up those connections
you are 101% sure about.
There will be some that you are unsure about and do not be tempted to
connect them anywhere. tape them up until you have power on the car
and then check with a lamp or meter when they are live etc. The looms
usually bring connections out at about the correct place so just take your
time, dont panic and dont be afraid to ask for help if needed.
My 2p hope it helps
John Dowson
At 12:00 PM 5/10/99 -0400, Hansen, Hans C, III (Red), GLSVC wrote:
>
>Fellow LisTRs --
>My local mechanic said that I need a new main wiring harness in my '74 TR6.
>I can't say that I disagree with him. I have TWO ignition keys plus an
>ignition button! The DPO or DPPO used tape to keep the factory-installed
>ignition key in the "on" position under the steering column, then installed
>a second ignition key on the dash support bracket along with an ignition
>button. This may have been his way of bypassing some yet unknown electrical
>problem.
>So, let's say my mechanic is correct. Well, he has to remove the dashboard
>and all the crash pads. While he's at it, he may as well replace those. This
>is OK since I want to replace all these parts anyway. The problem is, my
>mechanic wants to order all the parts himself, install them, and charge me
>full list price. Now, I know if I shop around I can get better parts prices
>than what he's going to charge me. Plus, if I do it myself, I'll save $50-60
>per hour in labor costs.
>Now we come to my important question: How difficult is it to replace the
>main wiring harness? Can a neophyte, such as I, do it? If I supply the
>parts, can my local non-LBC auto garage do it? (This could save me $150-300
>in parts alone.) Does anyone have any experience in this approach?
>Remembering a thread a few weeks ago, he also said I need an engine rebuild
>- to which I also agree for several reasons (oil pressure, noises, smoke,
>etc.). But the expected cost is $3000 to $4000. At those prices it MAY be
>cheaper to get a factory-fresh engine from Rimmer AND pay the shipping!
>Any and all help is -as always - greatly appreciated.
>Red Hansen
>'74 TR6 CF13994
>
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