Thank you very much for your info. You seem extemely knowledgable. Please
excuse my ignorance, this is my first LBC. I was under the impresion that
my selenoid is conected directly to my starter. Correct? I have two wires
that connect to it. 1) the red positive battery cable connected to a large
terminal, and 2) a smaller white wire with a pink stripe connected via a
female terminal to the side of the selenoid. When I turn the key I get a
click from BOTH a relay on the inside of the fender on the drivers side, and
what I understand to be the starter selenoid. If I pull the white/pink wire
off the selenoid I only get the click from the relay.
In part 2 of your response you mention TWO large terminals with TWO wires.
I have only the wires mentioned above. The other terminal has no wire
connected to it. I found this odd but dismissed it because I took nothing
off of that terminal and the car started five minutes before I replace the
cable. ???
TIA,
Eric
-----Original Message-----
From: DANMAS@aol.com <DANMAS@aol.com>
To: lukehart@mis.net <lukehart@mis.net>; triumphs@autox.team.net
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: TR6 goes Click C
>In a message dated 4/22/99 9:31:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
lukehart@mis.net
>writes:
>
>> Hello list,
>> I had a badly frayed Positive battery cable that was constantly giving
me
>> trouble. I started the car up and turned it around in my garage and
>> replaced the cable with one from TRF. After I hooked it all back up, I
>> turned the key and got that tuning fork like CLICK (Just one per key
turn)
>> along with a small puff of smoke. I am hoping that this smoke came from
>the
>> WD40 I applied on the cables. The battery is fully charged My
headlamps,
>> horn etc all work, and I double checked my conections. Still I only get
a
>> click. Any Ideas? Have I burned out my starter selenoid somehow? If
so
>> how can I check it before replacing it?
>
>Eric,
>
>here is the click coming from? Around the fuse box, or from the area around
>the starter? If it's coming from around the starter, you may have a bad
>solenoid, but if it's coming from around the fuse box, you may have knocked
a
>wire loose from one of the solenoid terminals when you put the cable on,
and
>what you're hearing is the starter relay clicking. There is a white/red
wire
>on one of the terminals that comes from the either a starter relay or the
>ignition switch, depending on the year of the car (you didn't give the
year,
>so I don't know if you should have a relay or not. The relay was added
>sometime around '74). This wire is powered to operate the solenoid.
>
>1) If re-attaching that wire doesn't help, try this: Pull the white/red
wire
>from the solenoid, and, with the transmission in neutral, emergency brake
on,
>and the ignition key off, jumper to this terminal directly from the
battery.
>If you don't get the starter to spin when you do this, you may have a bad
>solenoid. If the starter does spin, you have a bad connection somewhere in
>the white/red wire.
>
>2) If the starter doesn't spin, the next step is to bybass the solenoid and
>power the starter directly. You'll notice there are two large terminals on
>the solenoid - one from the battery and one with a large wire that goes
>directly into the starter. Using one of a pair of jumper cables, and
>observing the same precautions as above, place one end of the jumper cable
on
>the positive post of the battery, and then press the other end firmly
against
>the terminal with the starter wire on it. Don't be timid - jam it up there
>hard. You want to make a good solid connection, with as little arcing as
you
>can. if you're timid, you won't make a good connection, and you'll get lots
>of arcing and burning of the terminals. Just make the connection long
enough
>to see if the starter will work, as the starter can draw a LOT of current,
>especially if it is stuck.
>
>If the starter spins in step 2, but not in step 1, your solenoid is bad. If
>the starter doesn't spin in either step, the starter is bad (unless it's
>jammed, in which case you'll hear it struggle as it tries to spin).
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>Dan Masters,
>Alcoa, TN
>
>'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
>'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion -
see:
> http://members.aol.com/danmas/
>'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition - slated for a V8 soon
>'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74
>
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