I did not see the correct answer.
The shims serve 2 purposes.
1. to correct toe-in on the rear AFTER the camber is fixed
via spring OEM shims, ideal is close to neutral, i.e. 0
camber, 0 toe-in, meaning you can use a 4 ft level on the
side of the tire front of the bulged spot, might need spacers.
Unladen you want to err on the side of positive camber.
The toe-in is the same way, zero with a err on slight toe-in,
you only have the outside shims to work with, so you'll find
you can only get so close, so leave it part of a shim toward
toe-in.
2. the inside shim is factory placed to square the wheelbase and
square the drive axles with the driveshaft. Think about it,
the drive line from engine back and to each wheel should be
100% perfect when driving normally, i.e. no deflection of
the axle at the U-joints. So, its darn important to place
the same internal number of shims identical to the factory
setting for that frame...
Otherwise you just pulled the axle forward/rearward of the
diff's pivot point and screwed up the whole drive alignment
(not to be confused with that above). Most the cars I've
seen have 2, 3, or 4 shims on the inside, so if you really
do not have a clue, I'd put 3 shims on each side inner.
Alignment is done from the outside location. If you're
pretty good with a tape and measure, you can do this yourself.
(most places tell me the TR6 rear is NOT alignable, and or
attack it with a hammer) these guys don't really have a clue!
The front is more complex and aligns per normal, the rear is indeed
an oddity.
Roger
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