Paul Aslanian writes:
>My observations of Karl's TR6 gathered over the last 15 years:
>(1) It rattles like mad--my friend Karl, never hears the rattles --some
>folks are lucky. Do they all rattle--seems like the
doors/dash/console/top
>are the main culprits--familiar? I assume fixable?
Rattles in the door are caused by:
1) windows. You can repair or replace the window guides to fix that.
2) doors. adjust the latch and/or replace the seals.
Rattles in the dash are caused by loose fasteners and other stuff in the
dash.
Rattles in the top can be addressed by a proper fitting top (when up)
and proper stowage (when down).
Opportunities for rattles abound in these cars (as in any car) but
they can be made rattle-free. I had a 74 that was rattle-free and I
have made tremendous strides in making the 71 rattle-free.
>(2) The car is that 1974 yellow--sort of like mustard yellow, brown
>interior. I don't like either the exterior or interior color in
>particular. If I remove all the things necessary to get a good respray,
>what should I be looking at in terms of cost of a respray? Since my
>favorite color for a TR6 is French Blue, I would need to redo the interior
>in black. What would be a reasonable price to expect for all the
>interior--new covering for the seats, door panels, carpeting, etc
A complete interior will cost $600 - 700
>(3) The car has neither a hardtop nor an overdrive
The most common configuration
>(4) The top has little tiny "slices/cuts" in it I presume from Karl not
>being real careful about how he folds the top when he lowers it. Two
>questions: were the original tops the ones outfitted with reflective
>material around the window and across below the rear window? What does a
>new top cost? Are they difficult to install? Or, should I plan to have it
>professionally installed?
Top installing is like any skill: there is a learning curve. I have
elected to not go down that road and have had all my tops installed.
Others on the list have done their own with good results. YMMV
>(5) The body is straight, original, and complete. The exhaust system is
>like new. The tranny does not shift like a Porsche box--the shifter does
>not feel like moving a hot knife through butter. The clutch release is
not
>progressive, linear, and super smooth. The engine is not as tractable as
>for example the narrow V6 in my Passat. My question: for those of you who
>have rebuilt your motors including attention to the ignition and
>carburetion, do you end up with a very nice and smooth (sweet sounding)
>six. Or, is the motor in the TR6 genetically a little rough/uncivilized?
These cars were built in the 70's. They will not be as smooth as a modern
car until you take the engine apart and balance everything.
>(8) I would plan to find a rusted out TR6 for parts--especially a factory
>hardtop and an overdrive. Looks as though that might be the best way to
go
>as long as I have a place to store the hulk. Overdrive question: I
>noticed from the web that there was a change in overdrive in 1973. Is
>there preference of one over the other and if so why? Is the overdrive in
>a 74 operated by a stalk on the right hand side of the steering wheel? I
>have not been able to find a picture of the dash of a car with overdrive.
An excelent source of spare parts. I had parted out two TR6's when I
redid my TR6 and I'm glad I did. Now that I am doing a TR8 I'm glad I
parted out a TR7.
>If I buy it, I would love to have a French Blue reliable,
>smooth--relatively rattle free LBC--I assume that is possible. And, if I
>buy the car for $4,500 and I do the vast majority of the work on the car
>myself (except the respray--I'm quite good at mechanical stuff--not
>painting--but I'm REAL fussy)--do you think I could have that TR6 the way
I
>described it above for an all in cost of $9k??
It depends on how REAL fussy you are. Perfectionist tend to lean toward
Porches. TR owners are usually more realistic. $4500 will do a lot to
a TR6. The parts are rather cheap (excuse me - inexpensive). More so
than most of the other TR's.
>Appreciate your time and help,
>Paul
>PS. I have one more question (for the moment):
>Today I read, again, through the Buyer's Guide to the TR6 on your web
page.
>I noted the concern about the rust where the trailing arms tie into the
>frame. I will check that out real well. The next thing I noted was to
see
>if there is a "clunk" which would indicate
loose/broken/damaged/rusted/torn??
>differential mounts. I recall Karl's car having a distinct "clunk" when
>one accelerates away from a stop. My question is: is the differential
>mount most likely the reason for the "clunk"? And, if it is, is it a
fatal
>symptom? For example does it indicate a major problem equivalent to a
>rusty frame where the trailing arms tie into the frame? I'm trying to put
>some bounds around the "clunk" problem--a $100 problem or a $1,500?
TR6's have a telescoping half shaft. This accomodates the varying distance
between the wheel hub and the differential. When a car sits for a
prolonged
period of time these spline shafts will get stiff and will cause a minor
clunk. The fix is easy: disassemble and grease and reassemble.
>Again if I'm inappropriately hassling you, please tell me to whom I might
>direct this inquiry.
>Thanks for all the help,
>Paul
No problem
Dave Massey
St. Louis, MO USA
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