Some manual or another for TR3's (might be the factory manual, but I don't
have one handy)actually recommends lapping down the pump body to reduce the
end clearance for the rotors. Obviously, if you then fit new rotors, they
will have to be shortened to match ...
The moral is, always check the clearances during a rebuild.
Randall
On Tuesday, March 09, 1999 7:55 AM, Jack W Drews [SMTP:vinttr4@geneseo.net]
wrote:
>
> Just a cautionary note regarding oil pump rebuilding kits.
>
> I purchased one for an engine rebuild and when I installed it in the
> pump body it would not turn. I disassembled it and measured the length
> of the outer rotor and found that it was .001 longer than the cavity. I
> put the old parts back in.
>
> Just yesterday I rebuilt another oil pump for a different engine. The
> new rotor had a every poor finish on it and the o.d. had a number of
> dings in it -- careless handling at the factory, I think. I carefully
> dressed down all the dings but when I assembled it, it did not turn
> freely. Even though I had the pan back on, I removed it, disassembled
> the pump, and put the old parts back in, fearing that the pump might
> sieze -- this has happened at the track to others with dire
> consequences.
>
> Soooo....if you rebuild your pump with new parts, be careful.
> --
> uncle jack
> 61 TR4 Rallye Replica Racer
> 71 TR6 Street Car named Desire
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