Bud :
Assuming you inspect the inside of the gear box and O/D while installing seals,
your plan sounds reasonable to me. I might consider replacing the 1st & 2nd
gear
synchro rings "just because". Moss has the ones for TR2/3/4 for $20 (don't
know if
the 6 is the same).
I agree the 2nd gear O/D engagement is smoother under full power, because the
clutch
slips a little. However, on my previous TR3 (which had a 3/4 cam & headers), it
eventually started slipping a lot. On disassembly, I found a thrust washer
broken
in 3 pieces. Ever since, I've used the clutch while engaging the O/D. It might
cost a few hundredths, but these days I think keeping the car is more important
than
winning the race ! <g>
BTW, I was talking to Herman vandenAkker (sp?) at our last club meeting, and he
pointed out something I've never noticed before : There are o-ring seals on the
shifter shafts where they enter the housing. Herman said that his leaked, and
the
ones Moss sold him didn't fit. He had to make some spacers to fill the gap. I
intend to look carefully next time I'm under the car, as I previously assumed my
major tranny leak was the rear seal, and it was just throwing oil up there.
I pulled apart a top cover from a wrecked TR3A and noted :
1) The 3 o-rings are 1/2" id, 3/4" od (1/8" section). This size does not
appear to
be common.
2) I couldn't get the procedure for disassembling the cover from my Haynes
TR2/3/4
manual to work. It wants you to remove the 3-4 (center) shaft first (so the
interlock pin is centered), but I couldn't get it between the 1-2 and reverse
selectors. I wound up removing the 1-2 and reverse shafts first, then using a
piece
of bent wire to re-center the interlock pin. I later checked the factory TR2/3
manual, which says to remove the side shafts first, but doesn't mention the
need to
re-center the interlock pin (which they call a roller).
3) All 5 tapered screws were loose in their respective shafts, even though they
had
been safety wired and the threads were quite tight. When I loosened and
re-tightened one, it went about 1/8 turn farther than before.
Randall
Bud Rolofson wrote:
> Randall
>
> Thanks for the advice. I'll try your shift idea this PM. Others said power
> on shifting makes for less of a jolt. Guess I'll just see what works. I
>think
> you're right about the temp. too I know it makes a difference in the gearbox
>and
> synchros performance.
>
> What do you think about just doing gaskets and seals since the tranny and OD
> seem to be operating properly? That's the way I'm leaning at this point since
> most folks say they are pretty sturdy units.
>
> Don't have a line on clutch linings but sounds like the QuantuMechanics guy
> might have them.
>
> Thanks again.
> Bud
>
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