--openmail-part-14420c10-00000001
Content-Disposition: inline; filename="BDY.TXT"
Ken,
As I knew I'd be replacing the glass on my TR3(a), I saved the following from
some time ago. Aftr you read Mark Erickson's dissertation, watch for my bit
underneath:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 21:17:14 -0700
From: "Mark A. Erickson" <mlazye@northvalley.com>
Subject: Re: TR3 windscreen glass replacement
Robert,
IF you can remove the screws, only remove the ones on the sides (4 of
them). Due to rust, figure on drilling off the heads. Tap the sides outward
a bit with a block of wood and hammer. Then tap the top until the frame is
off. Now tap the bottom off. With any luck the screws will come out. OOPS,
side posts must be off. If you need to drill out the screws, try not to
remove the screws that hold the L-bracket to the bottom rail (bracket is not
90 degrees). This bracket can be fabricated from angle iron, if needed. Any
glass shop will carry "Butyl tape", sold by the foot. Butyl tape comes in
different thickness for different glass and different channel widths, check
fit for snugness at shop with bottom and a piece of windscreen. Fold Butyl
tape over bottom of glass and tap bottom channel on (be careful not to go
to far). Trim excess butyl from corners. Fold tape around top and sides,
use masking tape to hold the tape to the side of the glass. Tap top on then
the sides, trim excess from side ends just before frame ends are fully
closed. Align screw holes and replace screws (SCREWS SHOULD BE ONLY LONG
ENOUGH TO FIT INTO THE BRACKET AND NOT EXTEND BEYOND, OR INSTANT GLASS
DAMAGE WILL OCCUR !!!!!!!). Tape will rip if it is to thick, causing leaks.
Replace side posts to frame (THERE ARE THREE DIFFERENT LENGTH SCREWS THAT
HOLD THE POSTS TO THE FRAME, SHORTEST ON TOP. BE CAREFUL, OR INSTANT GLASS
DAMAGE WILL OCCUR !!!!!!!). Trim excess tape from windscreen, job done.
Think of replacing bottom rubber during this operation.
Mark
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
OK. So far I've taken mine apart, and there is one thing in the above that
could use further clarification. The four screws he refers to appear to be six
screws (or maybe it was eight) when you look at it, but in fact there are only
four that need to be undone. Looking at the side, there is a pair at the bottom
of each side - these are the four. They are not the chrome head screws but the
ones whose heads are flush with the inner part of the groove. These connect to
the L bracket he refers to, which indeed is not 90 degrees.
Take a good long look at the Moss (or some other) catalog and you'll see these
brackets. You can get away with just disconnecting the sides of the frame from
them; then the bottom chrome piece of the frame can be tapped straight down.
What will really happen though is you'll end up drilling out the heads of these
screws to get them out as they're slot heads and will be totally rusted to the
L bracket.
Note that you really don't need to touch the other screws half way up and at
the top. You can only see why once it's apart, but don't waste time and
frustration on them; you'll have enough with the others.
All the above assumes of course that the entire windscreen assembly is already
off the car. If you have four big slot head screws holding it on, send me an
email; it's too much to go into that here as well.
Hope it helps,
Regards,
Jim Wallace
'60 TR3a TS81417
PS THANKS MARK ERICKSON!
**************************************************
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 20:54:20 -0600
From: kengano@advant.com (Gano, Ken)
Subject: TR3 windshield installation
I know that I've seen here a trick for installing the rubber gazing around
the TR3 windshield frame. Something involving routing a rope through the
channel and then using the rope to draw in glazing in. Anyone care to send
along detailed instructions?
Thanks
Ken Gano
downstate illinois
'59 TR3A TS57756L
'58 TR10 TBE9239LDLB
--openmail-part-14420c10-00000001--
|