Bob,
Great little summary on TR6 wheels! I'd suggest staying with no more than
3.75" backspace with 3.5" being better. I think the 6" and 7"Panasports can
be had at 3.75" and the 7" Shelby wheels on my 6 have 3.75". I get a slight
touch on full lock backing up!
Bob Kramer, Austin TX
Hill Country Triumph Club
TR6's, TR250's, TR3A vintage race
rgk@flash.net
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Lang <LANG@ISIS.MIT.EDU>
To: Bobby Whitaker <bjbrew@mindspring.com>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 9:19 AM
Subject: Re: TR6 Wheels
>
>On Tue, 2 Feb 1999, Bobby Whitaker wrote:
>
>> Robert,
>
>Hello.
>
>I'm cc'ing the triumphs list so I can start a flame war! ;-)
>
>> I came across your message in the Triumph digest regarding tires and
wheels
>> for TR6's.
>>
>> How about a quick question? Thanks in advance if you can help.
>>
>> You mentioned you had some American Racing four spoke wheels. Would
these
>> be the same American Racing wheels that places like Sears sells?
>
>Well, yes and no. American Racing wheels has changed a bit from the past.
>It used to be a family owned business, and that was sold sometime in the
>80's. The new business is a bit more focused that the old business. In
>other words, cars like Triumphs are more or less left out in the cold...
>sort of. And if you call them and ask them about selling you a set of
>Formula Libras or one of the older styles, you'll get a resounding "NO!"
>Although this could change - note that they "revived" the Torque-Thrust 5
>spoke wheels in the semi-recent past. But don't hold your breath.
>
>As someone else posted to the Triumphs list in the reccent past, there
>were several types of 4 spoke American Racing mags... including "real
>magnesium"! But most were aluminium. The wheels are considered by some to
>be the "period piece" that sets thier car off, I happen to be one of
>those folks.
>
>In any case, these wheels - including the "Formula Libra" style have not
>been manufactured for quite some time. As there is still a demand for
>them, they can fetch more money than some newer wheels might cost.
>
>I'll also point out that there are many sets out there that are
>"incomplete" where one wheel was broken or bent and the owner is looking
>for "one more" to complete the set. See, a set is probably worth upwards
>of $750, but a single wheel will set you back $250 or so... it's a
>seller's market, so to speak.
>
>Oh, if you come across a complete set - BUY THEM. You can always sell
>them on the triumphs list! I always carry a few hundred $$$ when I go to
>Carlisle or the bigger shows, "just in case". Note: I was rewarded at
>Lime Rock back in Septemger '98 with a set of 5.5 inch American Racing 4
>spokes... those'll be great for the "rains".
>
>> Also, is
>> there some way to tell if a set of four bolt wheels will fit the TR6. I
>> thought by measuring the distance between the four studs and comparing
this
>> to a wheel of interest that this would tell me if they would fit my 6.
>
>Well, there are two measurments that matter (actually four). For fitting
>a wheel to your car, you must (of course) have the bolt pattern the same.
>TR6's (all the big Triumphs, for that matter - up to the TR7) use a "4 by
>four and a half" pattern. That means the lugs are all located on a circle
>whose diameter is 4.5 inches. The second wheel measurement that matters
>is the so-called "backspace". This is the distance from the lip of the
>inner part of the wheel to the surface that mates with the hub that you
>are attaching to. This number matters because it effects your track and
>steering geometry. The third number is, of course, the diameter of the
>wheel itself. A forth number would be the width of the rims...
>
>> The
>> reason I ask is that I was looking at a set of American Racing wheels at
>> Sears one day and asked the salesperson if they would fit a TR6. He had
to
>> call AR and they said no.
>
>Two things - if a person had to look this up and then call the
>manufacturer, you should run away from the place. Really. This stuff is
>not rocket science, and a competent wheel/tire shop should be able to set
>you straight.
>
>That being said, I have looked into all sorts of possibilities for wheels
>for TR6. There's not as much choice as you would have if you were buying
>wheels for your Honda or VW... There are choices, but you need to be
>careful that you get what you want.
>
>So, I'll suggest that you look around for some used rims that come off of
>a TR6. That way you'll know that they fit. Otherwise, keep asking around.
>
>BTW, the backspace on a TR6 is around 4 inches. Any more than that, and
>you'll have interference problems in the front - the wheel will very
>likely hit the upper A arm attachment, particularly at full steering lock.
>
>Summary: TR6 - use 6 inch wide wheels. 15 inch diameter, 4 by 4.5 bolt
>circle with a 4 inch (or slightly less) backspace. If you want 7 inch
>rims (like you're autocrossing with huge Hooooooosiers in the 225/55 or
>shorter/wider), then get them with "standard offset".
>
>You get what you pay for with wheels, a good quality wheel will cost
>money - but it will be worth it because they won't bend as easily and if
>you take care of them they will likely outlast the car. If you buy cheap
>wheels, you get - well, cheap wheels. If you are racing or autocrossing,
>think about the safety factor and get the best wheels you can afford.
>
>Last thing - if you are charting new waters, buy one wheel and try
>mounting it on each corner and check for interference. That way you'll be
>out $200 if it doesn't work out (as opposed to being out the replacement
>cost of a full set-o-wheels.)
>
>> Thanks for any info,
>> Bobby Whitaker
>> 1972 TR6 CC78127
>> bjbrew@mindspring.com
>
>
>regards,
>rml
>TR6's street, autocross and Nasty!
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