Listers,
I got his email from Gary Bouffard and thought some others may find it
useful as well. You should direct questions to him, since I've never done
anything like this (YET!).
Dave Moag
77 Spitfire
62 TR3B
-----Original Message-----
From: Gbouff1@aol.com [mailto:Gbouff1@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 1999 7:48 PM
To: moag@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re: Some possibly dumb questions!
Dave,
I am having some computer problems and have lost all of my addresses
including
the triumph list, you may want to forward this response to the list for me.
First, I want to state that my engine stand is rated for 750 lbs., you may
need additional support if your stand is rated for less.
In order to start the engine on the stand, the flywheel and starter need to
be
attached. To clear the flywheel, extra long bolts with spacers must be used
to mount the engine. For spacers I used a combination of washers and a short
length of 1/2 pipe ( otherwise you will need a few hundred washers.)
Because
The starter is attached, I was only able to secure three of the four anchor
bolts. To compensate for the missing bolt, I wedged a piece of wood between
the bottom of the block in front of the oil pan and the frame of the stand.
The above arrangement made for a very stable platform.
For a fuel line I clamped about 8 ft. of small diameter hose to the fuel
pump
and into a gas can and duct taped all openings except for the vent. At this
point turn the engine over till the pump is primed. You may have to start a
siphon action to accomplish this.
I ran my engine for only a minute, so I didn't bother with trying to run
water
through the block. If you intend to run longer, a running garden hose duct
tapped to the lower inlet should work fine if you take out the thermostat.
This way you get a good flow and KNOW that you have water circulating. I
used
to run my outboards for tuning, adjusting and flushing for extended periods
of
time like this, with no problem.
I direct wired both of the low tension leads to the battery making sure one
lead was loose enough on the COIL to pull off, so that I could stop the
engine
when necessary. Attach both leads of the starter to the battery and one to
the starter, use the ground lead to make contact with the engine block to
kick
the starter over. DO NOT make spark contact with the battery terminals as
there is risk of explosion because of the battery gasses.
With a little starting fluid I was able to get the engine started on the
third
attempt after 25 years of dormancy. However, I was the proverbial one armed
paper hanger. It would be much easier with a friend to help with the choke,
throttle, and starter. In a pinch, vice grips will help perform the extra
duties.
Let me know how you make out.
Gary Bouffard
59 TR3A TS58399
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