Dave/List:
Thanks for the encouragement and advise (as well as the
rest of the listers that responded). I too tend to go after
a job with sheer determination. I was able to get the 2
u-joints in this morning. Yes, the bearings had tipped,
thus preventing the spider to fully engage with the cup.
I too found you needed to tap the cup at times off
center to reallign the cup and coax it into the yoke.
One thing I did learn. If you leave the grease nipple in
the u-joint when you need to tap out the cup (oops, those
darn bearings again), the force created from the spider
stricking the cup will break the threading of the nipple.
Trashed that u-joint! So, if you ever need to tap/rap/hit
really hard to release the cap, first remove the grease
nipple from the u-joint.
All are in and fit great. The right side half axel should
be much easier now that I'm experienced!
Had a hell of a time getting the trailing arm off today, but
that will be another post.
Thanks again for all the help.
Scott Suhring
Elizabethtown, PA
'70 TR6
Heglund, Davis (MN17) wrote:
>
> Had some similar problems with my 69 GT6. In fact, I took one of the rear
> axles to a local machine shop after I had given up. They ruined a u-joint,
> and told me that it simply wouldn't fit!! Tried it at home again, with the
> first u-joint, and finally succeeded through sheer determination (I hate to
> be beaten by something mechanical). I had the binding problem, also, but
> was able to adjust the cups by tapping on one side of the top of the cup to
> move it slightly off-axis until it freed up.
> Don't know what the TR6 rearend is like, but the GT6 rotoflex rearend is
> a real nightmare. Previous owner let the bearings go too long and wore the
> hub shafts. Had to get sleeves machined and pressed in to make up the
> difference. And then getting the right thickness spacers........ick.
> Anyway, chances are your u-joints will fit, but you may have to "massage"
> them a little. Good luck.
> Dave H.
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