Pat Starr, My server can't locate you - refer to the following:
John Mc
Subject: TR6 AXLES
Author: JOHN MCMASTER at STRAT_BUSINESS
Date: 05/11/98 8:56
Jeffrey, Ken and Aaron,
You've all asked pretty much the same question so I'll post jointly.
The conversion that is readily available here in Aus. uses the ball and
groove axles from early Nissan/Datsun cars - usually 180B's as they're
the cheapest, and modified in either of two ways (by different
companies). Both ways, however, require the Datsun axles to be
shortened by about an inch to fit the TR4AIRS, TR5 (250) or TR6. (They
slip straight into the big saloons though without shortening!)
One way is to use a specially made split universal joint. It takes
the Triumph cup on one side and the Datsun on the other. They are
expensive at about A$70 each but you don't need to modify your
existing yokes or stub axles. These are available through British
Auto Care - on the web at; www.bac.com.au
The second way, the way I went, is to machine the stub axle and yoke
to accept the Datsun universal joints. You also need to rebuild the
hubs as you've got to remove the stub axle to facilitate machining. I
decided on this method because; a) I had to rebuild the hubs anyway
(shot bearings); and b) you can get replacement universals anywhere.
The company that has set up to do this work is not on the web but I
can supply details if required.
If you have access to a machine shop, you can do it yourself.
Shortening the axles is not difficult - on the shaft side, drill out
the yoke about an inch deep, cut the yoke off once drilled, shorten the
shaft to the right length, turn down the shaft to form an interference
fit to the yoke, press the yoke back on, cross drill through the yoke
and shaft, press an interference fit pin through the hole, weld both
ends of pin, weld both sides of yoke, and there you have it! A
shortened axle that will not break, lock splines or any of the other
terrible things the Triumph ones did!
If you use the 'split' unis, that's all you have to do. Otherwise
you'll need to machine the stub axle and yoke to take the Datsun unis.
They're bigger in diameter and have an internal circlip on the cup
which means a bit of machining on the inside as well - again, not too
difficult to do.
Hope this answers most of your queries. I've had mine fitted for
about 2 years through some fairly hard driving - a bit of race work
(autox I think is what you guys call it), rallying, hill climbs and
some other brisk stuff. I've never had a problem and it eliminated
that horrible tail end twitch on change up when exiting a corner on
power.
All the best,
John Mc
'71 TR6 PI
"Fast is First'
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